Ever since it opened in 2005, The Silverspoon (Cafe) has been a quaint place to get interesting and healthy breakfast and lunch. A recent move/expansion to Eagle Village Shops (Spread Eagle Village), however, combined with the addition of chef Ron Sliverberg (son of owners Rich and Ruth), has allowed this little neighborhood cafe to reach new levels of food and service.
The Silverspoon is committed to focusing on local and sustainable meats, as well as whole grains and seasonal vegetables. Touted by the owners as a casual, “bouchon-style” atmosphere, the restaurant is housed within an open, airy room that’s both casual during the daylight hours and elegant after dark. There’s also a great patio out front when the weather is optimal.
Breakfast and lunch are consistent with the experience from the other location, if a bit more elaborate. On brunch special one day was a pulled pork hash – a saute of potatoes and baby spinach, mixed with house-smoked pork shoulder and topped with a couple fried eggs. The dish was rich and extremely flavorful. More traditional options include some interesting omelettes and multi-grain pancakes or french toast.
On the lunch side, we tried the “Cape May” panini (turkey with strawberry mustard, cheddar, and slaw). Though the slaw was somewhat overpowered by onions (a no-no for me), the sandwich was still light and tasty. Sandwiches change seasonally but always feature fresh, interesting combinations.
Coffee lovers might also take note that The Silverspoon serves perhaps the finest espresso in the area – topped with a wonderful crema, it is intense and robust without any burnt aftertaste.
Though brunch and lunch are nice experiences, dinner is truly where The “new” Silverspoon shines brightest. The seasonally-appropriate dishes are inspired and unique. Our meal kicked off with a cold avocado “soup” amuse, a decadently creamy concoction mixed with crispy guanciale (pork jowl bacon) and drizzled with chili oil. The savory flavor and crispy crunch of the Italian delicacy was a perfect addition to a nice meal starter.
A basket of fresh bread and a plate of piquant extra virgin olive oil was also served while we waited for dinner – though nothing out of the ordinary, the freshness of the bread and wonderful flavors of the oil didn’t require any additional tinkering.
As an appetizer, we shared the duck confit risotto with sprout leaves, baby bellas, and pecorino chip ($12 – also available for lunch). The entire dish was drizzled with basil oil, and the combination of the fragrant basil, pungent pecorino, and amazing earthiness of the local mushrooms almost made the duck unnecessary. But who’s going to turn down duck confit?
The entree that jumped immediately off the menu was the cider-brased berkshire pork osso bucco, pumpkin grits, truffle duxelles, grain mustard jus ($24). It sounded like Fall in a bowl, and the actual execution did not disappoint. The sweetness of the cider and pumpkin was a perfect foil for the with the richness of the fork-tender meat, creating an amazing balance and resulting in a completely clean plate.
We also tried the seared grass-fed angus beef striploin, served with marrow quinoa, broccoli two ways and a sage demi ($29). The meat was simply perfectly cooked – charred on the outside and a deep-pink medium rare within. Getting temperatures correctly is a somewhat lost art, and this was execution at its finest. Interestingly, broccoli was perhaps the most dominant of the dish’s flavors (though I didn’t see exactly what the “two ways” was). The marrow quinoa had an earthy, rich – if slightly strange – taste.
Adventurous eaters might want to visit The Silverspoon on Wednesday nights for “World Tour Wednesday”, when they offer a constantly-changing menu focused on interesting dishes from around the world such as Brazilian pork ribs, Hungarian molasses duck or Moroccan coconut cake. Follow on Twitter for each week’s menu.
In our original review (in ’05), we described the service at the Silverspoon Cafe as having a slightly weird vibe. We were unable to put our finger on exactly what it was, but it was something. Our lunch experience at the new location continued that feeling — I couldn’t tell if our waiter had a bit of an attitude or just a unique personality. At dinner, however, service was both friendly and professional, somewhere between a cafe and fine dining experience.
All in all, The Silverspoon’s decision to expand and add dinner service has been an excellent one for the area. They offer creative, innovative and sustainable cuisine, a seasonal menu, and a comfortable atmosphere for a casual or even romantic meal. Best yet, the BYOB policy makes it a great value.
Eagle Village Shops
Wayne, PA 19087