Bake 425, which opened in April 2011 at 1012 W. Lancaster Ave. in Bryn Mawr, is a take-out, bake-at-home pizza shop and the latest project from Pete Howey and Aaron Nocks, owners of Peace-A-Pizza. Elizabeth Comiskey of Phoenixville’s Farmers Market helps source the completely organic, seasonal ingredients. The menu is mostly pizza, ranging from simple plain or Margherita to more innovative combinations such as the “Southwest Sausage”, which features organic tomato sauce, locally made Italian sausage, mozzerella & fontinella cheeses, sliced poblano peppers, caramelized onions & fresh oregano. Other offerings include organic salads, apple crisp and “ginormous” cookies.

The store itself is bright and open; chalkboards & kitchy decor create a casual-meets-gourmet feeling. (The space will also be available for in-store events and catering services.) Staff are friendly and willing to answer questions about the menu or the cooking process. Especially appreciated is the “demo kitchen”, where customers are shown how to insert and remove ‘za from the oven. (It seems easy in theory, but you don’t want to lose a pizza on the bottom of your oven – trust me.)

On our initial visit, we couldn’t resist the “Nutty Chick”, a tantalizing combination that includes butternut squash puree, fontinella cheese, arugula, pancetta, herb-grilled chicken, shaved Parmesan & fresh rosemary. Though I recall reading that Bake 425 would offer a choice of gluten-free, vegan, whole wheat, and regular thin crust dough, these choices weren’t listed on the menu, so they either aren’t available yet or you have to ask. I meant to inquire about whole wheat, but it slipped my mind at ordering time.

Though the temperature 425 is an integral part of this store’s identity, directing customers to cook pizza at such a low temperature is a bit odd. Professional kitchens typically cook thin crusts at 800-900F; home ovens obviously don’t get that hot, but I typically aim for 475-500 when cooking my own ‘za. Bake 425′s pie isn’t all that thin, which is probably part of the reason the suggested temperature is lower. Still, these instructions might need tweaking. Though the outer crust got crisp quickly, the center was undercooked, and the top didn’t get bubbly as a great pizza should. I even resorted to pulling out the blowtorch to crisp the cheese, but that didn’t help much.

My personal preference is for the thinnest possible pizza crust; I’ll complain, for example, about the thickness of Neopolitan-style when coming from Rome’s paper-thin pizzerias. So, Bake 425′s crust, which falls somewhere between local Italian (thin) and Greek (thick) style pies, was disappointing. If you prefer it with a bit more heft, of course, this may be less of a concern.

Despite the crust complaint, the balance of flavors on the Nutty Chick was outstanding. Butternut squash sweetness perfectly offset the salty pancetta, woodsy fresh herbs and pungent flourishes of Parmesan. Though the menu explicitly listed rosemary, I detected a blast of sage as well — probably from the “herb-crusted” chicken. Interestingly, while the herbs on said chicken were essential, the chicken was probably extraneous. Restraint is crucial when it comes to pizza ingredients, and the chicken — although it certainly didn’t cause any flavor imbalance — may have weighed down the pie and contributed to the cooking troubles.

It was difficult to judge the doneness of the “ginormous” cookie, due to a lack of experience cooking such absurdly-sized treats. Alas, I believe I slightly overcooked it. Considering the ginormousness (this thing could easily satiate 6 adults after a meal of pizza), it seems that offering a choice of smaller cookies would be better for both cooking execution and portion control. Though the cookie was decent while hot, it didn’t hold up well the following evening (it became brittle and bland), thus I would have preferred to have extra uncooked dough for another fresh batch.

Price is certainly a consideration when ordering from Bake 425. For $17, a large Nutty Chick feeds 2-3 people (more likely 2). Considering the quality of fresh, organic ingredients, this is actually quite reasonable, but feeding a family will certainly cost more than a trip to the corner pizza shop.

Lastly, one surely can’t write about Bake 425 without a comparison to Mom’s Bake at Home Pizza, the torch-bearer for ready-to-cook pies on the Main Line since 1981 (who, incidentally, suggests cooking at 475 degrees). In reality, with Mom’s locations in Devon, Havertown and Newtown Square, there probably isn’t a great deal of direct competition for a shop in Bryn Mawr. If, however, they were located on the same block, Mom’s would be the easy winner, for their superior, thin crust and evenly-cooking pies. Don’t write off Bake 425 just yet, however. Though there were a few flaws in the execution, a knack for creative, tasty flavor combinations sets the foundation for success.

Bake 425's Nutty Chick, before

Bake 425's Ginormous Cookie, before

Bake 425's Ginormous Cookie, after

Bake 425
1012 West Lancaster Avenue
Bryn Mawr, PA
610-525-6425
http://www.bake425.com | Facebook | Menu

Pick-up and delivery is available 1:00pm – 8:00pm Sunday through Thursday and until 9:00pm Friday and Saturday.

It’s no exaggeration to call White Dog Cafe the most anticipated restaurant since Main Line Dine began covering the local scene in 2003, so it was with a mixture of anticipation, curiosity and cautious optimism that we braved the early crowds to get a peek at the new local hot spot.

Even from the street, the space White Dog occupies is stunning. Large windows overlook Rt. 30, and what looks like it will become a popular terrace sits bare, patiently waiting for Spring. Inside, the decor is more elegant than TWD’s downtown cousin, while maintaining a healthy dose of the famously funky kitsch. Four different dining rooms offer varied atmospheres, which almost makes it possible to have a completely different experience from visit to visit.

The front room, which contains the expansive bar, is decorated wall to wall with painted dog portraits, creating the feeling of a cozy, fun and slightly strange hunting lodge. The two side rooms are closer to a living room, or perhaps a country cottage, and the back room, with its bright lighting and butcher block tables, feels more like a bouchon. Though it is hard to declare which atmosphere is best without having dined in each room, we did encounter the major drawback to the front room: sitting anywhere near the bar risks being hassled and annoyed by the throng of people waiting for a table as they jockey for a drink. This may be fine for those looking for a quick bite from the bar menu, but for larger parties, who took the time to make a reservation, and are paying dining-room prices for the complete culinary experience, this is simply unacceptable. Otherwise, service is friendly and casual, yet incorporates some slight formal touches.

The menu, of course, is all about fresh, local, sustainable, fair trade ingredients, and though Judy Wicks no longer runs the day-to-day operation of either restaurant, her ideals remain at the forefront of each. We started with the Wild Mushroom Stuffed Raviolis — appropriate for Fall — which were tossed with trumpet mushrooms, scallions, tasso ham and light porcini cream ($9). These airy pillows of pasta were deliciously earthy, and tempered by a touch of cream and the occasional bite of smoky ham, although the chewy, tough trumpet stems could have been omitted. We also tried a dish not on the website menu — Spiced Lamb Sliders, which were made from ground meat and topped with a lovely tzatziki sauce. Seared only to rare, they were melt-in-the-mouth succulent and one of the highlights of our meal.

Our waitress informed us that the Spicy Lamb Bolognese, which contained Meadow Run Farms lamb, Severino rigatoni, basil ricotta and baby spinach ($20) is a “signature dish” of the downtown White Dog, and one can surely see why. Chunks of lamb and perfectly balanced spices (though the dish isn’t really “hot” spicy) create a marvelous depth of flavor, and the dollop of ricotta that’s whipped with fresh basil adds a pungent flourish to the already silky, creamy sauce. This is easily the menu’s must-try dish!

A more casual option is the Green Meadow Cheddar Burger, which comes adorned with Smoked Bacon Mayo, Grilled Red Onion & House Cut Fries ($15). We’ve all had a burger with bacon, cheese & onion, and though this one isn’t going to change the world, it is nicely executed. The meat was cooked properly, and the combination of the rich cheese, smoky bacon and juicy beef creates a powerfully flavorful sandwich. The fries were particularly good as well — crispy enough, but also tender and well-seasoned.

Sadly, we did endure one major disappointment: The Red Wine Braised Beef Short Ribs, served atop root vegetables, garlic-Parmesan potato puree and crispy shallots ($28). The beef itself was woefully undercooked — no, it wasn’t rare, but it was quite tough, not fork-tender as properly braised meat ought to be. There were huge chunks of fat throughout — another indication that it needed more time in the oven, or to be cooked at a lower temperature (or both). If that wasn’t enough, the root veggies, which were, boringly, all white (no orange?) were also undercooked to the point of being crunchy. Crisp veggies are fine in a stir-fry, but not in a slow-cooker dish like this one. Lastly, though it is hard to argue against crispy shallots, this dish was on the verge of being overwhelmingly oniony. Based on everything else we ate, the lack of technique and focus here was shocking, especially for a dish that seemed so irresistible in menu form.

Not wanting to leave on such a bad note, we had to sample a few of the dessert offerings. The Sugar & Spice Doughnuts, stuffed with both Kallari chocolate cream and local fig jam ($8), are a clear shot across the bow to Berwyn’s Nectar (who has built a bit of a reputation for their beignets). They were served warm, and were simultaneously bold and delicate, amazingly tender, and delectable. We didn’t appear to get the promised vanilla Anglaise dipping sauces, but nobody seemed to care.

We also tried the Caramel Apple Pudding ($8): warm cinnamon apple brioche pudding, sauteed Kaufmann heirloom apples, butter rum sauce, vanilla ice cream and a spiced crisp apple tuille, which certainly won marks for great presentation — it was served in an opened hermetic jar, with the tuille protruding from the top. This was tasty, and offered intriguing layers of warm and cold, but still failed to reach the heights of the doughnuts.

The bar offers a small but sensible wine selection (if $44 for a $12 bottle can be considered sensible; in our case the Sterling Zinfandel), as well as some local beers and a variety of signature cocktails. On a cold evening, it was quite tempting to sample from the variety of Hot Toddies, but the packed house warmed us quickly enough.

White Dog Cafe
200 West Lancaster Avenue
Wayne, PA 19087
T: 610-225-3700
F: 610-225-0700
http://whitedog.com
Reservations: Open Table

Burger & Fries

Lots of Dogs! (photo credit: whitedog.com)

Ever since it opened in 2005, The Silverspoon (Cafe) has been a quaint place to get interesting and healthy breakfast and lunch. A recent move/expansion to Eagle Village Shops (Spread Eagle Village), however, combined with the addition of chef Ron Sliverberg (son of owners Rich and Ruth), has allowed this little neighborhood cafe to reach new levels of food and service.

The Silverspoon is committed to focusing on local and sustainable meats, as well as whole grains and seasonal vegetables. Touted by the owners as a casual, “bouchon-style” atmosphere, the restaurant is housed within an open, airy room that’s both casual during the daylight hours and elegant after dark. There’s also a great patio out front when the weather is optimal.

Breakfast and lunch are consistent with the experience from the other location, if a bit more elaborate. On brunch special one day was a pulled pork hash – a saute of potatoes and baby spinach, mixed with house-smoked pork shoulder and topped with a couple fried eggs. The dish was rich and extremely flavorful. More traditional options include some interesting omelettes and multi-grain pancakes or french toast.

On the lunch side, we tried the “Cape May” panini (turkey with strawberry mustard, cheddar, and slaw). Though the slaw was somewhat overpowered by onions (a no-no for me), the sandwich was still light and tasty. Sandwiches change seasonally but always feature fresh, interesting combinations.

Coffee lovers might also take note that The Silverspoon serves perhaps the finest espresso in the area – topped with a wonderful crema, it is intense and robust without any burnt aftertaste.

Though brunch and lunch are nice experiences, dinner is truly where The “new” Silverspoon shines brightest. The seasonally-appropriate dishes are inspired and unique. Our meal kicked off with a cold avocado “soup” amuse, a decadently creamy concoction mixed with crispy guanciale (pork jowl bacon) and drizzled with chili oil. The savory flavor and crispy crunch of the Italian delicacy was a perfect addition to a nice meal starter.

A basket of fresh bread and a plate of piquant extra virgin olive oil was also served while we waited for dinner – though nothing out of the ordinary, the freshness of the bread and wonderful flavors of the oil didn’t require any additional tinkering.

As an appetizer, we shared the duck confit risotto with sprout leaves, baby bellas, and pecorino chip ($12 – also available for lunch). The entire dish was drizzled with basil oil, and the combination of the fragrant basil, pungent pecorino, and amazing earthiness of the local mushrooms almost made the duck unnecessary. But who’s going to turn down duck confit?

The entree that jumped immediately off the menu was the cider-brased berkshire pork osso bucco, pumpkin grits, truffle duxelles, grain mustard jus ($24). It sounded like Fall in a bowl, and the actual execution did not disappoint. The sweetness of the cider and pumpkin was a perfect foil for the with the richness of the fork-tender meat, creating an amazing balance and resulting in a completely clean plate.

We also tried the seared grass-fed angus beef striploin, served with marrow quinoa, broccoli two ways and a sage demi ($29). The meat was simply perfectly cooked – charred on the outside and a deep-pink medium rare within. Getting temperatures correctly is a somewhat lost art, and this was execution at its finest. Interestingly, broccoli was perhaps the most dominant of the dish’s flavors (though I didn’t see exactly what the “two ways” was). The marrow quinoa had an earthy, rich – if slightly strange – taste.

Adventurous eaters might want to visit The Silverspoon on Wednesday nights for “World Tour Wednesday”, when they offer a constantly-changing menu focused on interesting dishes from around the world such as Brazilian pork ribs, Hungarian molasses duck or Moroccan coconut cake. Follow on Twitter for each week’s menu.

In our original review (in ’05), we described the service at the Silverspoon Cafe as having a slightly weird vibe. We were unable to put our finger on exactly what it was, but it was something. Our lunch experience at the new location continued that feeling — I couldn’t tell if our waiter had a bit of an attitude or just a unique personality. At dinner, however, service was both friendly and professional, somewhere between a cafe and fine dining experience.

All in all, The Silverspoon’s decision to expand and add dinner service has been an excellent one for the area. They offer creative, innovative and sustainable cuisine, a seasonal menu, and a comfortable atmosphere for a casual or even romantic meal. Best yet, the BYOB policy makes it a great value.

Cape May Panini

Pork Hash

The Silverspoon
Eagle Village Shops
Wayne, PA 19087
610.688.7646
http://www.silverspoonwayne.com/

The combination of fresh, local ingredients, creative, innovative Italian-American cuisine, comfortable-yet-refined ambiance and brilliant service make Restaurant Alba one of the most exceptional restaurant experiences in the western suburbs.

Food: Things kicked off with a complimentary amuse of sunchoke puree with extra virgin olive oil. This robust oil was also served next to crusty Italian bread.

We started out with the “Batsua” ($12) – a crispy fritter made from braised pig’s feet and belly, served with a mustard crema. These had a wonderfully “porky” flavor; though we expected it to be like bacon, it was closer to a smoked pork barbecue. Though frying this concoction seems excessive, it was certainly worth trying. We also sampled the Antipasto ($15pp – changes daily), a sampling of 5-6 “chef’s choice” appetizers. All were excellent — but our favorite was the goat cheese & grilled ramp bruschetta.

Wood Roasted Goat, served alongside grilled whole grain polenta and soffrito braised greens ($31), was tasty and savory. To make this dish, a whole goat is slow-cooked overnight on the dying embers of the previous night’s fire and then braised before a quick reheat on the grill. It’s a uniquely flavored meat — closest to lamb but not quite as gamey.

The Berkshire pork shoulder, served with crispy spaetzle & peas, charred fennel and a bit of Tupelo honey sauce ($26) is cooked in similar fashion to the goat, and the quick grilling just before serving gives it a texture almost like a crusty bread — crispy on the outside but light and fluffy inside. In contrast to the goat, the honey and cider jus gave this dish a subtle kick of sweetness.

A grilled rib-eye special was served with sea salt and fine tuscan olive oil alongside crispy potatoes and a mixed green salad. It was a simple dish — the “crispy” potatoes were really cold homemade chips, which was a bit disappointing — but the steak was well-cooked and quite tasty.

Alba also offers 4-5 pasta dishes such as Veal & Sweetbread Ravioli, Morel Mushroom & Vegetable Soffrito ($20) and several fish entrees like the Atlantic Tilefish with Nettle & Potato Gnocchetti, Grilled Meyer Lemon & Caper Brown Butter ($29). The menu changes seasonally.

For dessert, we tried the Chocolate Pot de Creme with Almond Torrone Whipped Cream ($8), which was light and slightly minty, creating a palate-cleansing feeling. It wasn’t spectacular, but we still cleaned the plate.

Bar: Once only a BYOB, Alba now offers a full bar. (BYOW is still allowed at $10/bottle.) A small list of beers focuses on local crafts from Victory. The wine list, on the other hand, culls mostly from Italy, with a large variety of hard-to-find small producers (or at least as many as you can get through the PLCB system). They also make house-infused grappa for those with fortified stomachs.

Service: Though the food is excellent, the attention to service at Alba is what truly sets this restaurant apart from others in the suburbs. Clearly the staff and management understand how to handle any issues and resolve them quickly and satisfyingly. Our very first dinner at Alba, shortly after they opened, showcased their attention to detail. A pork chop originally came from the kitchen extremely undercooked, so much so that it was inedible. A passing waiter (not our own) quickly noticed that I looked unhappy and offered to take the plate back to the kitchen. Never a good situation to have one plate of hot food on the table and not the other, our waitress quickly reappeared with a small appetizer to tide me over until they could fix up the chop. Obviously I was unhappy with the fact that my food was not prepared well at first, but the professional and caring way that the entire staff handled the incident was brilliant.

On a more recent visit, our waiter once again illustrated how seriously Alba takes service. There were no errors from the kitchen this time around, but our waiter answered every question we had about the menu (there were quite a few) with a level of knowledge and detail as if he would be personally preparing each entree. He had no hesitation to help us choose the entrees that would be suit our interests and needs.

Ambiance: Artsy and comfortable, bustling yet romantic. There are two rooms, the main one which features an open kitchen, and a more private side room. The main room is perhaps a bit more compelling because of the large wood oven in view, but there isn’t a huge difference.

Value: As with many restaurants that move from BYOB status to bar status, the value proposition at Alba has gone down a bit. It’s nice that they offer a BYOW option, but the $10 corkage is quite steep. Wine bottles are not outlandishly priced (at least compared to other restaurants), and value can be found with some digging, but most bottles are at least $40. Entrees haven’t dropped in price since the bar was added, so expect to pay upper 20s or even low 30s. It is hard to complain when the quality of the food and experience is consistently excellent, but Alba is certainly no longer your neighborhood restaurant for a casual Friday night.

Details:
# of times we’ve eaten there: 4
Reservations: Yes (recommended even on weekdays) OpenTable
Bar: BYOB
Cards: MC/Visa
http://restaurantalba.com/
7 West King Street
Malvern, PA
610-644-4009

Rating: 3 silver spoons out of 5

Overview: Located near the Bryn Mawr train station, Tango offers solid food and beautiful surroundings. During the warmer months, the outside deck is also a great place to have a few cocktails and appetizers.

Food: Contemporary American with Mexican influence and specialties, the menu also focuses on re-imagined  comfort foods, including broccoli rabé with white beans, veal meatloaf with steamed broccoli and mashed potatoes, jambalaya (not, according to one of my dining companions, for the faint of heart) and chicken enchiladas. Tango also offers an extensive wine and cocktail list, including wines by the glass and bottle, house and fruit margaritas, and a variety of “mocktails,” non-alcoholic cocktails. Pitchers of either sangria or margaritas are always a favorite – especially on a warm evening, sitting out on the deck.

Both the dinner and drink menus are extensive, and having been to the restaurant a number of times, we have been able to try a variety of things. On our most recent visit, we started with gazpacho, the soup of the day, and Mexican chicken spring rolls. My dining partner let me have a quick bite of his gazpacho before he scraped the bowl clean and it was quite good: light, refreshing and with just the right amount of spicy zing. The chicken spring rolls were also tasty, with the mild queso fresco adding the perfect amount of creaminess to balance the spicy chicken. However, the dough was a bit undercooked and, as such, a few bites of the spring rolls were gummy.

In carnivorous moods, we both decided to order steak. I opted for the rib eye with mashed potatoes, sugar snap peas and (the real draw) gorgonzola-onions. While my steak was cooked well, I was disappointed by the gorgonzola onions. Though some were sweet, creamy, and flavorful, the rest were burnt and inedible.  My snap peas, however, were perfect: crisp, sweet, buttery, and happily cleaned of strings and stems. My dining partner chose the grilled New York strip steak with Dijon mustard and roasted garlic butter, steamed broccoli, and shoestring fries. This dish was by far the winning one: the perfectly cooked and seasoned steak was complimented by the rich, tangy and smoky-sweet sauce; the shoestring fries were crisp and salty; though under-seasoned, the broccoli fresh and tasty.

Though we were both too full for dessert, I couldn’t resist taking a peek at the menu: crème brulee, cheesecake, and the always decadent warm chocolate soufflé were very tempting. For those who do opt for dessert, I highly recommend the soufflé: rich, not too sweet, and oozing with warm chocolate, it’s always a favorite. Tango also offers good, strong coffee and delicious after dinner drinks.

Service: The staff at Tango is always friendly and helpful, though not as knowledgeable about the food and beverage selections as the staff at Nectar (also owned by Tango’s proprietor).

Ambiance: Housed in the former  Bryn Mawr train station, the restaurant is truly beautiful. Though the cozy main dining room with its warm color palette and stone fireplace is wonderful, my favorite area of the restaurant is the Train Room. With leather booths and velvet curtains, Tango creates the feel of being inside of a posh dining car, a feeling that is heightened by the trains speeding past the windows. Everyone I’ve taken to the restaurant is awed by the room.

Value: Appetizer range from $4.50 – $14.00, entrées from $13.00 – $27.00. Portion size is very generous, making Tango a very decent value.

Details:

# of times we’ve eaten there:  5+
Reservations:  Yes, by telephone
Hours:  Monday – Thursday: 11:30am – 9:30pm; Friday: 11:30am – 10:30pm; Saturday: 12pm – 10:30pm; Sunday: 11:30am – 8:30pm
Bar:  Yes
Payment:  Cards
Website:  http://www.tastetango.com/

Preview: We attended the soft launch of Verdad on Thursday, August 6, 2009 — a practice run for the staff before the big grand opening the following night. As a restaurant trend, tapas is not exactly the theme of the moment (burger bar anyone?), the Main Line has yet to spawn a successful tapas joint. (Places like Citron and Maia claimed to be tapas, but never really went for it.) Verdad, on the other hand, has truly built its menu around a nice variety of small plates, and seeks to finally create the tapas experience we’ve been wating for.

The setup is generally the same as other restaurants that have previously occupied this space — bar on the left side, with booths opposite, and small sitting areas in the front and back. The decor effectively portrays the Spanish and Latin themes of the menu, with earthy colors and old-world accents.

The menu is mostly small plates, ranging in price from $4 to $21. About 3 plates per person would be recommended for dinner, though this would obviously depend on which plates are chosen. Menu highlights include:

• a brie-stuffed mission fig that’s drizzled with balsamic glaze ($4) – warm, sweet and delicious
• the Cuban sandwich (berkshire pork, chorizo, swiss cheese, pickles, garlic aioli – $9) – a wonderful melding of different flavors, all held together with cheese.
• black truffle flatbread with confit chicken, goat cheese, pesto, sundried tomato & mushrooms ($11)
• seared lamb chops served with “patatas bravas” – a traditional crispy potato tapas dish that is topped with a fried egg ($21)
• Full Menu Here (PDF)

The bar features an extensive tequila menu (25+ choices), including 10 “flights” of three tequila choices each. (Note to self: take train to Verdad.) A small but interesting selection of Spanish and South American wines, including a red and white Sangria choice is also featured. The beer list is also small but varied, with some Mexican brews and local crafts sharing the spotlight.

Been to Verdad? Post your reviews below!

Dinner service:
Tuesday through Thursday 5:00 – 10:00pm
Friday and Saturday 5:00 – 11:00pm
Sunday 5:00 – 9:00pm
Lunch service: Tuesday through Saturday 11:30am – 2:00pm
Closed Mondays

Reservations: Yes, or OpenTable

Rating: 5 silver spoons out of 5

Overview: Outsanding upscale bistro that can offer both a casual neighborhood meal of small plates, pizza and pasta, and an upscale special occasion dinner of wonderful modern American entrees. Worth the drive from the Main Line!

Food: To start things off, a complimentary amuse bouche of cool three potato soup and crème freche was immensely fresh and even featured hints of kennett mushrooms. After struggling to decide among a variety of attack plans, we opted for the Antipasto ($18), a collection of different small bite appetizers. The Mushroom & Truffle Grilled Cheese was, obviously, great, as are most things that feature bread and melted cheese, but the local mushroom flavor added just enough interest to make this stand out even more so. Another winner was the Fava Bean Crostini with Shaved Pecorino, which, when dipped in the olive oil provided with the complimentary bread was even nicer. It was great to see Fiddle Head Ferns featured (with Prosciutto Di Parma), as these hard-to-find veggies are always a nice treat in the Spring. Though perhaps not the intended way to eat it, spreading the Goat Cheese & Caramelized Onion Flan on a piece of fresh, crusty bread made for a great impromptu bruschetta. Lastly, the Fried Smelts with Anchovy Aioli were just ok, as the “fishy” flavor overwhelmed to some extent.

The Natural Free Range Chicken entrée, served on a bed of Butternut Squash, Johnny’s Mushrooms, Cous Cous “Mac & Cheese” and Chicken Jus ($26) was the big winner of the evening (and we rarely order chicken!). The French-cut bird was perfectly cooked, crispy skin on the outside but still tender within, and the creamy “cous cous”, which was a mix of all the above ingredients, was both rich and comforting. The other entrée we tried, Local Spinach and Feta Tortellini served in a Spring Garlic Broth with Grated Aged Goat Cheese ($25), offered more subtle flavors but was both light and satisfying. It tasted like Spring in a bowl!

For dessert, we opted for the Liquid Center Butterscotch Cake, served with Bourbon-Vanilla Bean Ice Cream, Espresso Dust and a Cocoa Nib “Glass” ($9) — think a butterscotch version of the classic molten chocolate cake. This was a bit too sweet — perhaps a coffee ice cream to replace the vanilla would provide some bitterness to offset the vanilla sweetness — but nonetheless we cleaned the plate.

On another visit, we sampled several of the excellent pizzas for a more casual dinner. Though everything was good, the Butternut Squash pie (Grilled Butternut Squash, Applewood Smoked Bacon, Gorgonzola, Baby Arugula) was out of this world. The sweetness of the squash paired brilliantly with the salty bacon for a unique, wonderful treat.

Bar: We chose to bring our own wine (for a $5 corkage fee), but Sovana does offer a nice selection of wine and beer. The moderately-sized wine list offers reasonably priced bottles ($30-60), though watch out for the single glass prices. For beers, they offer some nice local craft brews, including a couple draft choices from Delaware’s Twin Lakes Brewery.

Ambiance: We’re partial to this kind of place — bustling, modern, and friendly, with lots of wood and natural light. Perhaps not a place for a quiet, romantic evening, but otherwise excellent. They also have some tables outside, both on the side (in a nice garden area) and out front (strip mall parking lot views).

Service: Competent service — nothing outstanding to report.

Value: Hard to say what a meal for two will cost due to the abundant options for meals and drinks, but prices are available on the website. Though the entrée prices can head into the $30s, the food is excellent and likely worth the price. Having a BYOB option, despite the $5 corkage (which is quite reasonable considering the license), is also great. And, if you want to try Sovana without breaking the bank, a meal could quite easily be made of appetizers and pizza.

Details:
# VISITS: 2
Cards: Yes
Bar: Yes / BYOW $5
Site: http://www.sovanabistro.com/
Reservations: OpenTable

Review: 3 silver spoons out of 5

Overview: The more casual sister of the acclaimed Dilworthtown Inn, the restaurant features an eclectic, seasonal bistro menu with great bar snacks, a superb wine list and a relaxed atmosphere.

Food: Having already enjoyed the Dilworthtown Inn, we were intrigued by the menu and concept of the Blue Pear Bistro. The menu, consisting of small and medium sized plates (though, all but one of our medium plates were typical entrée portions), contains modern bistro fare, where classics like steak frites are offered alongside eclectic selections such as skate wing and French toast napoleon. We started the meal with cocktails and bar snacks. Though the strawberry mojito was much too strong, my drink, called Fig Thyme, was absolutely delicious – the earthy, fragrant thyme was the perfect complement to the sweetness of the figs. For our snacks, we chose the deviled eggs and white truffle popcorn. While the deviled eggs were quite good, it was the popcorn that took center stage – none of us could stop eating it!  It was warm and crisp and covered with just the right amount of salt and truffle oil; for me, it was one of the highlights of the meal.

Appetizers consisted of shigoku oysters, fried calamari and jalapeño rings, and the bacon and egg salad.  The oysters were lovely: sweet, creamy, and mildly briny. They were especially delicious when topped with the accompanying mignonette and a refreshing ginger concoction that was reminiscent of a good granita.  The bacon and egg salad was also very good, though the egg was coated in a greasy batter that didn’t stick to the egg. Luckily, when removed, the egg turned out to be well cooked with a proper runny yolk.  Though the fried jalapeño rings were enjoyable and offered just the right amount of heat, the calamari itself was rubbery and rather tasteless.

For my entrée, I had the barbecue beef short ribs with creamy grits and watercress salad. The short ribs were cooked very well – they were melt-in-your-mouth tender – and well-seasoned. However, the barbecue sauce was overwhelming and took away from the flavor of the meat. The creamy grits were true to their description and full of rich, buttery flavor. Although I enjoyed them at first, by the end I almost felt as though I was eating mouthfuls of whipped butter. One of my dining partners tried the skate wing with citrus beurre blanc, a special of the evening, and was very pleased with it. The meat itself was tender and delicately flavored and went very well with the tangy sweetness of the citrus sauce. Another member of the group had the seared scallops with English and sugar snap peas and a subtle but rich lobster saffron sauce.  The scallops were tender, perfectly cooked, and lightly caramelized. The scallop dish was the smallest of the entrees – seemingly the only one that actually lived up to the “medium plates” label.

Though the meal so far had been very enjoyable, dessert was rather disappointing. Despite an enticing menu, including French toast napoleon, lemon-maple sorbet, and profiteroles, both desserts that we ordered were underwhelming at best. The French toast napoleon was cloyingly sweet, and I could only eat a few bites of it. Not even the accompanying lemon-maple sorbet and tart blueberries could offset the sweetness.  The other dessert, carrot cake with cream cheese frosting and crispy carrots, was far too spicy.

Service: Having already experienced the fantastic service at Dilworthtown Inn, I had high hopes for the Blue Pear. However, the service was adequate at best. When asked about the flavor of dishes on the menu, our robotic waitress had to check with the kitchen, making it very clear that she had never tasted them. Worse yet, on a number of occasions she cleared plates off the table when people were still eating! Initially, she took the popcorn as someone was reaching in for another handful (we were too stunned to say anything), and later proceeded to do the same with my appetizer and another person’s entrée.

Ambiance: Housed in a renovated 18^th century general store, Blue Pear is warm and inviting, with a number of different styled sections – a porch, bar area, lounge, and regular dining room. This cozy feeling is enhanced when people are sipping wine on the porch and/or talking and enjoying snacks at the bar.

Value: Prices for the small and medium plates range from about $7.00 – $24.50, with bar snacks and side dishes ranging from about $2.50 – $6.50.

Details:
# of times we’ve eaten there: 1
Reservations: Yes, by telephone
Hours: Monday – Saturday 4:00pm – midnight (bar service begins at 4:00pm, dinner at 5:00pm)
Bar: Yes
Cards: Yes
Website: http://www.bluepearbistro.com/

Overall: Trendy, creative Conshohocken BYOB with loads of potential. Unfortunately, the cuisine and execution at Blackfish are too inconsistent to rate it among the area’s finest.

Food: Creative Modern American fare with a focus on seafood. Everything started brilliantly during our first visit to Blackfish. Wonderful whole wheat rolls paired beautifully with extra virgin olive oil and whole olives. The Risotto of the day — Arancini, a Sicilian favorite of breaded, fried rice balls, paired with a red wine reduction dipping sauce ($9) — was excellent. We also tried the Parmesan “panna cotta” (a custard-like substance) with pickled ramps and roasted ruby beets ($9), which was a bit different but also quite tasty. Veal agnolotti, served in a crispy sage brown butter sauce with a wonderfully pungent Parmesan cheese topping ($12), however, was the starter that caused fork fights to the very last bite at our table.

By now, we could not wait to recieve our entrees; we had selected the wild striped bass with asparagus and trumpet mushrooms in a curry emulsion ($28) and a strip steak special served with sweet shallots and trumpet mushrooms in a bordelaise sauce ($36). Disappointingly, the second course could not nearly hold up to the previous one; not only did the dishes suffer from uninspiring flavor, every one delivered to our table was poorly executed. My fish was completely raw in the middle (I enjoy sushi, but this bass was so tough it could not be cut with a fork), so I sent it back. Others at my table who ordered the same dish were met with a similar fate, as the fish was neither cooked evenly nor completely. Even once I received a fully cooked filet, the dish itself did not inspire. The supposed curry emulsion offered no addition to the dish’s flavor, and the veggies were simple but boring. The steak, amazingly enough, was also undercooked (ordered medium rare). We’re not afraid of a nice red steak, but this was pushing the boundaries of rare. (Interestingly, a friend who visited Blackfish on a seperate occasion complained of the duck being badly undercooked before hearing our story… hmmm.) The steak otherwise was a fine dish, but was hardly worth the steep price tag.

The appetizers were good enough to convince us of dessert, so we tried the Vanilla Beignets with Spiced Anglaise ($7) and the Warm Molten Chocolate Cake ($7). Both were quite rich and tasty. (Although we prefer chocolate, the gleefully warm beignets were the winner that night.)

Ambiance: Far brighter than the previous Maya Bella, Blackfish ironically features stark white walls throughout. It is a busy, loud room, like any main street hot spot should be.

Service: The waitstaff was extremely friendly and helpful dispite the inadequacies of the kitchen. The chef did insist on re-cooking my entire dish (some at the table were finished eating when it arrived).

Value: The trend for upscale area BYOB is for the entrees to venture into the upper 20s and low 30s, and Blackfish certainly aims to live within that scale. The execution, however, needs to improve greatly to justify charging $36 for any entree. Creative, tantalizing menu descriptions are one thing, but true value only comes with the delivery of a well-created entree.

Details:
#of times we’ve eaten there: 1
Cards: Yes
Reservations: Yes, must reserve early (OpenTable)
Bar: BYOB
website: http://www.blackfishrestaurant.com/

NOTE: This restaurant was reworked and renamed The Farmhouse Bistro in 2011.

Rating: 2 silver spoons out of 5

Overall: The main attraction at Places! Bistro, the restaurant attached to the People’s Light & Theatre in Malvern, is the nice outdoor garden area, a rarity in this area. The food is creative but inconsistent, making this a fine place to go but nothing spectacular.

Food: Creative American fare with a variety of seafood, poultry and meats. An appetizer portion of the exotic mushroom gnocchi was easily the best thing we had, as the creamy, woodsy sauce was rich but not too heavy and matched nicely with the mushrooms, sundried tomatoes, spinach and pillowy gnocchi. My “Duck Duo”, grilled duck breast with a thigh confit-phyllo tower, cinnamon farro and swiss chard, was somewhat disappointing; the grilled breast had a deep smoky flavor which I didn’t love (and wasn’t mentioned on the menu), and even worse the meat was too fatty to really be chewable. The phyllo tower was better, but a bit dry. The cinnamon farro was very interesting however, as the cinnamon flavor was very light and complimented the whole grain nicely. (It should be mentioned that a number of dishes had whole grain starches, always good thing to see.) The steak frites, served with a cream sauce, bleu cheese, creamed spinach and chili aoli, was better, but it didn’t knock my socks off. The steak was also a tad overcooked (ordered med-rare, served med) and tough, but the sauce was flavorful. The fries were nothing special, although the aoli gave them a spicy kick.

Bar: Places does allow BYOB, but they do charge an $8 corkage. Normally this incences me to no end, but considering they have full bar, the nominal fee is actually somewhat reasonable. (Especially when you consider that a bottle of something like Cline or Smoking Loon that retails for about $10 goes for around $30 at the bar — if you bring your own, you’ll pay $18).

Service: I would consider the service to be very European — friendly but slow. I really liked the team of folks that served us, and the head waiter even stopped by to chat about wines for a bit, something he surely didn’t have to do. My only complaint is that it took a while to serve us drinks when we got there, a pet peeve of mine. As long as I have a full glass of wine, I’m happy to wait; without it I get impatient rather quickly.

Ambiance: A nice patio/garden area out front — one of the best outdoor spots in the area. Bring bug spray after dark though — I got eaten alive. It should be noted that there was a wedding reception going on while we ate dinner — we didn’t mind the cheesy wedding songs playing constantly in the background, but those looking for a quiet, peaceful retreat may want to keep that in mind on Saturdays (I don’t know if this is a regular occurance or not).

Value: Appetizers $8-12, entrees in the mid $20′s. The entrees were a bit overpiced for the quality, although if they could perfect them a bit, the idea behind each entree certainly warrants the pricetag. If you choose to purchase alcohol, the value proposition goes down further.

Details:
Visits: 1
Bar: Full (or BYOW for $8)
Cards: Yes
Reservations: Yes
Website: placesbistro.com