The Newtown Square / Broomall area is an interesting one for Main Line food-lovers. It’s likely that many people who live on the true “main line” (especially blue-bloods) don’t think of NS as a place to go for food, despite its proximity to just about every town between Bryn Mawr and Paoli. That said, there are some extremely interesting food options here, many of which are somewhat under the radar on the food scene.

Perhaps this is due to the fact that restaurants and food stores in this area tend to be very traditional and less trendy that what you might find on the Line. We’ve previously discussed the fantastic selection of Italian-style pork sandwiches along the Route 3 corridor, and old-school Italian restaurants like Valentino’s remain quietly successful after all these years. Along those same lines, Weinrich Bakery (which, for some reason, we’ve yet to profile on MLD) offers a great selection of traditional German (and PA Dutch) specialties like butter cake. A little further down Route 3 lies Armenian Delight, a small storefront selling Middle Eastern groceries and prepared foods.

I’ve surely driven past Armenian Delight hundreds of times over the years, but honestly never really paid it much attention. The storefront does not appear to have been cleaned, spruced, touched in any way in at least 25 years. To be blunt, it looks dilapidated and outdated. Though we’ve all been taught to not judge a book by its cover, we all still do.

Interestingly enough, it was Anthony Bourdain who finally convinced me to check out Armenian Delight. Well, not directly, but it was certainly his influence. It was the Istanbul episode, where Tony and a friend go to a restaurant to get a local specialty called Lahmacun: flatbread with spiced beef. Basically, it was a combination of two outstanding food groups – pizza and middle-eastern food. How could that possibly be anything but wonderful?

After perusing the interwebs for a few recipes, I filed away good one for a time when I was feeling inspired and kind of forgot about it… until I saw a mention of Armenian Delight in some local publication that raved about their Lahmajoun (different spelling, same foodstuff). That close to home!? A visit here became imminent.

The inside of the store is not much different than the outside – simple, a touch austere, and outdated. But there are some really interesting foods to try. Of course, the main goal was Lahmajoun, of which there was plenty to be had. A 12-pack of beef ones (which are about 8-inches in diameter and very thin) runs about $16. Not a bad deal for a lot of food, although certainly more than a normal-sized family needs for a meal. There were also chicken and veggie varieites in the freezer. Reheat them at 400F for about 5 minutes before eating.

Truth be told, eating Lahmajoun was not a life-changing experience. Spicy (not hot spicy, but flavorful spicy) beef, onions and garlic were the dominant flavors, and overall they were balanced. This is a nice snack or lunch to keep in the freezer for sure, but, just the same, I can’t insist that this is a must-try. Also, this being my only experience, I have little to compare them to. That said, they rate as tasty and interesting, if unspectacular.

Hummus, on the other hand, is something I can speak to quite familiarly. Armenian Delight’s is quite good. Smooth, creamy and very flavorful. It had a bit too much lemon for my taste, however I do prefer mine with less than most recipes. The zesty acidity did provide a nice foil to the spiced beef.

Armenian Delight also offers an interesting selection of other foods such as flatbreads, stuffed grape leaves, fresh phyllo, a nice variety of cheeses, olives, plus some dry goods (including their own blend of falafel mix that we acquired but have yet to taste), spices and nuts.

Armenian Delight

2591 West Chester Pike
Broomall, PA
(610) 353-7711

Tucked quietly in the Gateway Shopping Center, Kabab Cafe is a fast-casual Persian grill, serving a variety of kababs and other middle-eastern specialties. It’s an interesting choice for a shake-up of the rote, standard fare that pervades the area.

The bright, open storefront is spotlessly clean, if simple inside. The ample seating area is perfect for lunch or a quick dinner, though certainly not for lingering over a meal. The food is well-suited for takeout, able to survive the trip home still warm and without losing too much quality.

The menu, shockingly, is dominated by kababs. A wide selection of lamb, chicken, several varieties of beef, and doner (that classic “meat on a stick” this cuisine is known for), are lovingly spiced, tender and juicy. The veggie kabab is well-charred for maximum flavor. Flafel is crispy on the outside, yet moist and savory within.

At lunch, try a sandwich ($4.99 on weekdays) served on the wonderfully fresh, airy flatbread with lettuce, tomato & onion, and choose the cucumber-yogurt side salad (which is really more like a sauce than a salad), which brings a welcome tangy sweetness into the mix. For dinner, platters come with two kababs, a side salad, some of that wonderful flatbread, and enough rice to feed Radnor Township. (Budget tip: order one meat-based platter, plus an “extra” veggie kabab for $4, and you’ll have plenty of food for two adults — maybe 3).

Aside from the kababs, one of the specialties is koreshte goosht, a ground beef stew with peas & potatoes. It’s an interesting, perhaps seductively spiced blend (turmeric, I think?), but texturally lacking something. The beef was just a bit too pasty – almost like eating a ragu. I’m glad to have tried it once, but I’m not sure I would order it again.

Though in general our experiences have been quite good, my one gripe with Kabab’s food is that the chefs can be a bit heavy-handed with the onions – particularly in the koobideh (ground beef). Eaten straight, the onion flavor is so overwhelming that it’s almost difficult to taste the beef. On a sandwich, when mixed with the other flavors, it is far less noticeable, but either way, it will stick with you for the rest of the day (that’s not a good thing).

Otherwise, Kabab Cafe is a great option to mix up your lunches or take-out meals. They’re celebrating their 2nd anniversary in March 2011, so if you haven’t been yet, it’s time to give them a try. Maybe next time you think about visiting 5 Guys, try a kabab instead!

Kabab Cafe
Gateway Shopping Center
Wayne, PA
610-975-5850
http://kababcafe.com/

Rating: 3 silver spoons out of 5

Overall: A cute little BYOB in the heart of Bryn Mawr; offers simple, reasonably-priced, well-prepared Persian cuisine.

Food: Although technically considered Persian, Mediterranean Grill’s menu is similar to a traditional Greek place, featuring a variety of appetizers, kabobs and other specialities. First, we were served warm, savory pita bread that was quite good, although desperately called out for some olive oil on the side. We tried a couple appetizers, first the hummus, which although a tad dry was solid. Far more interesting was the tahdig, literally “bottom of the pot”, a crispy rice (from the bottom of the pot) that was almost like crackling pork skin. Choose the herb sauce and this is a can’t miss dish.

For entrees, I decided to try one of the more adventerous items on the menu — Fessenjan, which is Persian meatballs with pomegranite and walnut paste. This dish was way too powdery and starchy, and was generally strange. In addition, the meat to sauce ratio was way too low and thus really wasn’t a satisfying meal. As fun as it is to try new things, I’d stay away from this one.

Thankfully, I was able to try some of the other meals we ordered, which were simplier but also much tastier. Both the filet strips and the lamb kabob featured tender, flavorful meat on a bed of light, fluffy saffron rice. I would highly recommend either — simple but incredibly tasty.

Ambiance: Very small, open room right on the street. The only problem with this place is that there really isn’t a waiting area; some tables are right next to the door.

Value: This is solid, simple fare and is priced accordingly, a reasonable value at around $20 for entrees. Comparatively, the food and prices are pretty similiar to nearby Lourdas, and this is a fair match. The other Mediterranean restaurant in town, Cafe Fresko, is a bit pricer but also offers more interesting, consistent cuisine.

Rating: 3 silver spoons out of 5

Overview: Long time West Chester mainstay offers well-prepared, traditional Greek cuisine (and BYOB!).

Food: Classic Greek fare such as souvlaki and flafel highlighted with homemade hummus and grilled pita. The menu at The Mediterranean does not change often and rarely pushes the envelope, but it is consistent and tasty nonetheless. There are several excellent starters, most notably the roasted sweet peppers, served on grilled French bread. Want to try something different? Go for the “meat pie”, a pizza-like concoction topped with meat and spices… excellent to share. The hummus is also excellent, but since most entrees come with the chickpea spread on the side, it is best to avoid the appetizer. Perhaps the best main course offered is the strangely appealing “Kibbi Platter”, a meatloaf (for lack of a better description) of ground lamb, beautifully spiced and served with a mild, creamy yogurt dipping sauce. All the flavors play off each other beautifully. Souvlaki (Greek Shish-Kabobs) is available with lamb, beef or chicken, and is simple but very good. My only complaint with a recent order of the lamb version was that the cubes of grilled lamb were a bit skimpy.

Ambiance: Classic, far from trendy. Small and sometimes cramped. I still haven’t found my way upstairs.

Value: The folks who run the Mediterranean recently raised the prices for the first time in many years, taking most of their entrees into the upper teens. As a relatively new customer, this seemed to be a reasonable and fair increase, but some long time customers have not been as positive. That said, a casual, well-cooked meal with BYOB for around $25 per person seems like a decent value to me.

Details:
# of times we’ve eaten there: 2
Reservations: Yes
Bar: BYOB

Rating: 3 silver spoons out of 5

Overview: Quaint little BYOB serving simple, consistent Greek food.

Food: Many traditional Greek dishes such as souvlaki (filet, lamb or chicken skewers on a bed of rice), gyros, and fish prepared Greek-style (oil, tomatoes, peppers). While the food at Lourdas won’t ever astonish, it is unvaryingly a solid meal.

Bread: Warmed Pita with Hummus — different and great.

Ambiance: A small, very bright room that is both casual and comfortable. Decorated with lots of white and blue — a strong Greek motif.

Service: Staff is young, energetic and enthusiastic.

Value: BYOB with very reasonable prices.

Details:
# of times we’ve eaten there: 5
Reservations: Yes
Payments: Cards
Bar: BYOB