Perhaps the most controversial restaurant review Main Line Dine has ever written was that of Christopher’s in Wayne, which posted shortly after the site launched in 2003. This review was ruthless, wasting little time calling out Christopher’s as “a terrible restaurant… [where] you won’t get a decent meal.”

There was nothing more to this review than what it was; no below-the-surface grudges existed. It was fairly based on several poor experiences, which were documented with clear examples. The most egregious concerned a dish of ravioli that was so undercooked it was crunchy, then re-served without sauce (and still crunchy, btw) after sending it back. (After posting the review, we actually got several notes from Chef/Owner Chris Todd inviting us to revisit, but it was too late. This was unforgivable stuff – not “worth another try” stuff.)

Readers, for the most part, agreed with our assessment. Friends who read it concurred wholeheartedly. Though some commenters on the site thought the review was overly harsh, they rarely offered anything other than a halfhearted defense.

So why was this review controversial? Well, it was from 2003, and remained on the site, unchanged, through 2011. As the years went by, and Christopher’s remained open — which, of course is not necessarily an indication of good food, just good business — the reviews began to change. More often, when someone left a comment about Christopher’s, it was something along the lines of “What is your problem? This place is pretty good”. My one buddy, who was perhaps the most ardent supporter of our original review, even conceded that he and his wife now go regularly and enjoy it for what it is – a casual, quick bite.

It is finally time, then, to bury the hatchet, and put Christopher’s back into the mix. When some friends were looking for a place to meet for lunch in Wayne recently, I enthusiastically suggested this we go there.

The atmosphere is great; it always has been. Some commenters have suggested that the negative review related to the fact that the room is always filled with families with children. This makes it noisy, yes, but so what? This is a “neighborhood place”, not the Four Seasons (or Hogfish, apparently). It’s probably not the best choice for a romantic, candlelit dinner, but it is a fun, bustling room that is designed quite nicely and is, of course, a great place to bring kids.

Service is decidedly casual, as it should be, but a small detail showed considerable improvement since the days of crunchy ravioli. One of our party mentioned a food allergy, and the seemingly young and potentially inexperienced server handled it as well as I’ve ever seen. “No problem,” she said right away. “Our kitchen is great with allergies. I’ll let them know right away.” It’s little touches such as this that make diners feel like they are in good hands.

Christopher’s menu remains a bit unfocused; their website even states that they offer “a little bit of everything” and “so many choices.” It’s hard to believe any restaurant can expertly execute Mexican, burgers, pizza, pasta, seafood and everything in between, but Christopher’s continued success suggests that they are managing some level of consistency.

That said, the Guinness pulled pork sandwich immediately drew my attention. Not a barbecue pulled pork (which they do also offer), which tend to be overly sweet in these types of establishments, this was pork slowly braised in dark, roasty beer. An interesting twist on a favorite, to be sure. The richness of the pork paired nicely with tangy apple slaw, as well as a spicy-sweet “cherry” mustard, and the pretzel roll was a comforting, delicious touch to finish it off. This sandwich is perhaps a bit heavy for a business lunch, but on a day off, when paired with one of the craft beers on tap (from a small but adequate list), it hit the spot.

It was just a sandwich. There are a world of other menu options to explore, which would take many, many visits to do with any completeness (even just sticking to the simple stuff, which seems wise), but it was definitely a more enjoyable experience than it was in 2004.

Perhaps Christopher’s isn’t a terrible restaurant after all.

All the comments from 2004-present are available below.

The Newtown Square / Broomall area is an interesting one for Main Line food-lovers. It’s likely that many people who live on the true “main line” (especially blue-bloods) don’t think of NS as a place to go for food, despite its proximity to just about every town between Bryn Mawr and Paoli. That said, there are some extremely interesting food options here, many of which are somewhat under the radar on the food scene.

Perhaps this is due to the fact that restaurants and food stores in this area tend to be very traditional and less trendy that what you might find on the Line. We’ve previously discussed the fantastic selection of Italian-style pork sandwiches along the Route 3 corridor, and old-school Italian restaurants like Valentino’s remain quietly successful after all these years. Along those same lines, Weinrich Bakery (which, for some reason, we’ve yet to profile on MLD) offers a great selection of traditional German (and PA Dutch) specialties like butter cake. A little further down Route 3 lies Armenian Delight, a small storefront selling Middle Eastern groceries and prepared foods.

I’ve surely driven past Armenian Delight hundreds of times over the years, but honestly never really paid it much attention. The storefront does not appear to have been cleaned, spruced, touched in any way in at least 25 years. To be blunt, it looks dilapidated and outdated. Though we’ve all been taught to not judge a book by its cover, we all still do.

Interestingly enough, it was Anthony Bourdain who finally convinced me to check out Armenian Delight. Well, not directly, but it was certainly his influence. It was the Istanbul episode, where Tony and a friend go to a restaurant to get a local specialty called Lahmacun: flatbread with spiced beef. Basically, it was a combination of two outstanding food groups – pizza and middle-eastern food. How could that possibly be anything but wonderful?

After perusing the interwebs for a few recipes, I filed away good one for a time when I was feeling inspired and kind of forgot about it… until I saw a mention of Armenian Delight in some local publication that raved about their Lahmajoun (different spelling, same foodstuff). That close to home!? A visit here became imminent.

The inside of the store is not much different than the outside – simple, a touch austere, and outdated. But there are some really interesting foods to try. Of course, the main goal was Lahmajoun, of which there was plenty to be had. A 12-pack of beef ones (which are about 8-inches in diameter and very thin) runs about $16. Not a bad deal for a lot of food, although certainly more than a normal-sized family needs for a meal. There were also chicken and veggie varieites in the freezer. Reheat them at 400F for about 5 minutes before eating.

Truth be told, eating Lahmajoun was not a life-changing experience. Spicy (not hot spicy, but flavorful spicy) beef, onions and garlic were the dominant flavors, and overall they were balanced. This is a nice snack or lunch to keep in the freezer for sure, but, just the same, I can’t insist that this is a must-try. Also, this being my only experience, I have little to compare them to. That said, they rate as tasty and interesting, if unspectacular.

Hummus, on the other hand, is something I can speak to quite familiarly. Armenian Delight’s is quite good. Smooth, creamy and very flavorful. It had a bit too much lemon for my taste, however I do prefer mine with less than most recipes. The zesty acidity did provide a nice foil to the spiced beef.

Armenian Delight also offers an interesting selection of other foods such as flatbreads, stuffed grape leaves, fresh phyllo, a nice variety of cheeses, olives, plus some dry goods (including their own blend of falafel mix that we acquired but have yet to taste), spices and nuts.

Armenian Delight

2591 West Chester Pike
Broomall, PA
(610) 353-7711

I’m not really a cake person. I’d much rather eat a cookie or a brownie, or some ice cream. I’ll admit, however, to getting caught up in the cupcake movement when it hit the area, falling for Cupcakes Gourmet when it first opened. But that love affair was short-lived. I quickly remembered cookies and brownies, and lost interest in the cupcake thing.

So, though I’ve seen Dia Doce at the East Goshen Farmers Market on several occasions, I always walked by without much of a glance (after all, My House Cookies, Laura’s Biscotti and Market Day Canele all also appear at the same market). Being a reluctant slave to food trend, however, I have to admit that, the other day, I walked past their cupcake truck at an event and couldn’t resist the temptation to try a Maple Bacon cupcake. After all, cupcakes and bacon are two of the biggest trends we’ve seen over the past 5 years or so, and I’ve never had the combination.

Despite the fact that I didn’t particularly care for the Maple Bacon flavor, Dia Doce are perhaps the best cupcakes I’ve ever had (I got a box of 4 for $10). Yep, better than Cupcakes Gourmet. The cakes are incredibly moist, the frosting-cake ratio is perfect, and the flavor combinations are very creative.

For the bacon cupcake, the maple frosting and cake were both nice, but the chewy bacon added an odd textural element. Though it was fun to try, I wouldn’t order it again. The chocolate chip cookie dough cupcake (pictured), on the other hand, was perfect for me – as it was kind of a combination of a cookie and a cake. We also tried a chocolate cupcake with chocolate frosting that was filled with a salted caramel cream, adding even more moistness to the wonderful cake. Lastly, the pumpkin pie cupcake – an obviously seasonal choice – was probably my favorite. Rich with fall spices, this cake was insanely moist and the frosting had just the right sweetness.

Has Dia Doce converted me to a cake person? Not quite. But if I do get the hankering for cupcakes (or the need to please those in my household who do love them), I know where I’ll be getting them from now on.

Dia Doce sells cupcakes at a variety of farmers markets in the area. In addition, you can track their cupcake truck online or rent it for a private event.

Dia Doce Cupcakes
http://www.diadoce.com
610.476.5684

(note: photo from Dia Doce Facebook page)

The subhead on Rosewood Coffee’s menu reads: “Uncommonly good coffee & tea. Unlikely Venue.” It’s no wonder — hospital cafeterias are not exactly known for their culinary expertise. In most cases, if you find Starbucks brew that’s been sitting around all day and a fresh banana, that’s pretty much a win. As such, imagine my surprise when I found this wonderful coffee & lunch stand located within Penn Medicine Valley Forge.

This place is incredible. The fact that it is located within a medical facility is absurd, but I honestly believe it would be just as good if it was a standalone shop in Wayne or West Chester, or even Philly. It is such a hidden gem right now; I’m not sure I should even be telling you about it!

Firstly, there’s the coffee; they pour one of the best cups for miles, mostly due to intense focus on both technique and ingredients. Using freshly-roasted, seasonal and traceable (meaning they know exactly where they are from) beans, the skilled baristas create amazing espresso drinks, pour-over and french press coffees. The espresso-based drinks are especially good. Using Counter Culture’s Espresso Rustico (on most occasions), they are able to extract maximum flavor and brilliant crema from a new La Marzocco espresso machine. A proper shot of 20-21 grams is expertly pulled, then topped with micro-foam textured milk (if desired).

On the food side, the menu is committed to high-quality, local and healthy ingredients. Many of the foods (including sweets) feature whole grains, organic sugars and other heart-friendly options (the one thing that actually makes sense in a medical facility!). They offer mostly light bites, such as breakfast sandwiches, baked goods, sandwiches and salads. I love their chocolate chip cookies (pictured), which are actually more like little cakes, made with whole wheat flour and organic chocolate – they are light, airy and delicious. For lunch, there’s a good variety of sandwiches and salads. We tried the chicken pesto wrap, made with provolone cheese, ripe tomatoes and greens with fresh pesto, on a whole wheat wrap. It was simple, but quite tasty and perfect fuel for a productive afternoon.

A few other menu highlights are:

• Whole leaf teas
• Turkey Sausage & Egg with sun-dried tomatoes & artisan greens on a multi-grain English muffin
• Granola w/ Greek Yogurt
• Ham & Brie Panini with greens, tomatoes and dijon on multi-grain harvest bread
• Field of Greens Salad – mixed greens with red apples, dried cranberries, candied pecans, goat cheese in a vidalia onion vinaigrette

The staff is super-friendly, and has always asked me sincerely how I enjoyed what I ordered. They are extremely knowledgeable about coffee in particular, and interested in discussing it at length. In addition, they always seem to remember me, even though my visits have been sporadic.

One thing worth noting is that service is not particularly quick. This is not a criticism; everything is made to order and with care, which shows in the final product. Those in a hurry, however, might consider calling ahead.

In sum, customers of Penn Valley Forge should not pass this place by. Heck, even if you regularly work in or travel through the Chesterbrook/252/202 area, this place should be a regular stop, doctor’s visit or not!

Rosewood Coffee Co.
Penn Medicine Valley Forge
1001 Chesterbrook Blvd
Berwyn, PA
(484) 222-0318
http://rosewoodcoffee.tumblr.com  |  Facebook

One would think that the main draw to A Taste of Olive would be olive oil. It is right there in the name, after all, and their product selection is mainly a wide variety of olive oils from around the world, many infused with different flavors. One would be wrong. The single most compelling reason to go to A Taste of Olive is for vinegar. Specifically, their 18-year aged balsamic vinegar.

This stuff is the elixir of the gods. Were talking sweet, don’t-even-need-oil-in-your-salad-dressing smooth. You-could-use-it-as-an-ice-cream-topping smooth. If you like your vinegar really acidic, of course, this is probably not the one for you. For the rest of us, get ready to never buy balsamic at the supermarket again.

Though this vinegar is the main reason to visit A Taste of Olive in either Ardmore or West Chester, it is not the only reason. They have lots of other oils and vinegars, both pure and infused with flavor. Aside from the aforementioned balsamic, there’s also espresso balsamic, and dark chocolate, and fig. And plenty of others. Want something lighter? Try the honey ginger vinegar, great in Asian salads.

There is, of course, a huge selection of olive oils as well. Many are infused with flavors like basil, lemon, chile, or truffles. Personally, however, I’m a purist. Infused oils are fun to try, but I would rather start with the straight-up, good stuff and add my own flavors as necessary. If I had one complaint, in fact, it would be that A Taste of Olive doesn’t have enough of a selection of different “plain” olive oils. Yes, they do have at least ten different varieties, ranging from smooth to spicy, fruity to earthy, and this is probably enough choice for most people. But not for me! I see a wall of these infused oil tanks and I dream instead of sections for Itlay, Spain and South American oils, showcasing the different regions and styles. I’ll readily admit that i am nitpicking here and saying this with a smirk on my face, but I am also quite serious about my oil. That said, whenever I’ve been in A Taste of Olive, the other customers always seem to be clustered around the infused oils, so I am sure the owners know more about what the public wants than I do.

Visiting A Taste of Olive is quite an experience. It is very similar to going to a wine tasting room, except you are sipping pure oil (or vinegar!) instead of tasty wine. For obsessivists such as myself, this straight shooting of many, many oils leaves a rather strange sensation in the throat. The experience would certainly be far better if they would put out little bites of bread to take the oil with (not to mention the fact that this would create a more similar experience to home consumption and thus more realistic tasting). Some of the oil stores I’ve been to in CA do this, but I suppose the owners of A Taste of Olive have their reasons for not. Perhaps they feel it would encourage browse-snacking instead of serious shopping (though I, for one, would shell out a couple bucks for tasting bread if it would be credited to any purchase). I wonder how they would react if I brought my own? Future food for thought.

In addition to oils and vinegar, A Taste of Olive also stocks a wide variety of gourmet treats and giftable items such as pastas, pestos & spreads, and spices. It would certainly make a great stop this holiday season for the food lover on your list. (Gift Certificates also available).

A Taste of Olive
http://www.atasteofolive.com/

22 W Lancaster Ave
Ardmore, PA
610.642.1123
Monday – Saturday (10am – 6pm)
Sunday (closed)

26 South High Str
West Chester, PA
610.429.0292
Monday – Saturday (10am – 6pm)
Sunday (11am – 4pm)

It’s amazing how many small food businesses exist in this area that even the most avid food lover might not know about. Take Sugartown Smoked Specialties, for example, who has been smoking up specialty meats & fish in this area for almost 20 years. 20 years! Though much of their business is selling to restaurants and wholesalers, Sugartown Smoked Specialties has also been a longtime tenant at the Lancaster County Farmers Market in Wayne (located next to the Greek stand in the back aisle), and sells some products at Hill’s Seafood Markets locations. In addition, all of their products can also be ordered online.

Owner Scott Hattersley offers a wide variety of smoked foods, including fish (salmon, scallops, etc.), fowl (chicken breast, pheasant) and pork (loins, tenderloins and ribs). Here’s an overview of a few of the items we sampled:

Natural Wood Smoked Boneless Duck Breast
Duck prosciutto, which is cured duck breast, is a somewhat trendy item to find on a charcuterie tray, and, with that wonderful layer of duck fat that sits atop the breast meat, it really is no wonder. This isn’t that… but there are similarities. Instead of being cured, Sugartown’s 12oz moulard duck breast is hot smoked over wood, which imparts a bold, intense flavor. That wonderful layer of duck fat remains, and the meat is packed with smoky goodness. What does that have to do with duck prosciutto, you ask? Well, although this can be heated an eaten like any other duck breast dish, I actually suggest serving it like charcuterie. Cut it super thin, and serve as you would prosciutto… alongside hors d’oeuvres, or perhaps in a sandwich with figs and bleu cheese. At more than $30 for each breast, this isn’t an everyday treat, but it’s a nice addition to the antipasti platter for a special occasion.

Whole Smoked Quail
4oz each, 4 for $26.50

Quail’s flavor is much stronger than that of chicken, and the natural smoke flavor that’s added during cooking makes this dish even more intense. I ordered quail in a restaurant once. It’s tasty, but it’s also a lot of work. There I was, sweating for every bite, while I watched my fellow diners relaxingly enjoying their non-quail meals. Since then, I’ve stayed away. It’s just not worth the effort. There are bones in Sugartown’s quail too, but I took a different tact. I broke the quails down while they were cold. Tore them apart with reckless abandon, not caring so much for the presentation as for the meat itself. I heated the yield gently and served it over a summer salad of mixed greens, peaches and corn. A great weekday meal. Of course, if presentation matters, you could certainly heat these babies whole and they’d look mighty purty.

Natural Smoked Tasmanian Trout
This trout, which was awarded the outstanding fish or seafood product award in 2008 in the Gallo Family Vineyards Gold Medal Awards for artisinal food producers, is similar to smoked salmon, but with a more intense, slightly gamey flavor. Though that may not be for everyone, lovers of smoked fish should be salivating. We served it in a rather traditional manner — with cream cheese and rye crackers — but this could be used in just about any preparation that calls for smoked fish. (8oz for about $20, larger sizes also available)

Sugartown Smoked Specialties
Headquarters:
306-1Q Westtown Road
West Chester, PA 19382
(610) 429-4080
http://www.smokedfoods.com

Lancaster County Farmers Market:
389 W Lancaster Ave.
Wayne , PA 19087
610-688-9688
Hours: Wed, Fri – Sat, 6am – 4pm; Sun – Tue, Thu, closed

Photos courtesy smokedfoods.com. Complimentary samples of items were provided to MainLineDine.

Once again, it all comes down to bacon. Thick, crispy, juicy bacon. Pete’s Produce Farm, a roadside farm stand located on Rt. 926 that I have driven past dozens of times, but only recently had the opportunity to stop and peruse, sells the best bacon I’ve ever eaten. It gets crispy on the outside, yet remains chewy and tender within, and brings an explosion of salty pork flavor. Unlike many of the products sold at Pete’s, this bacon is not local. It is made by Broadbent’s in Kuttawa, KY, but I am oh-so-happy that it made the trip. The surprising, strange thing about Broadbent’s bacon is that it is not refrigerated. This can be quite off-putting on a hot day at Pete’s, as you pick up a warm, limp package of bacon. Do it anyway! Because Broadbent Country Bacon is a dry cured product, it does not require refrigeration; it has a shelf life of three months, although refrigerating or freezing upon receipt will extend its quality and life. (According to the vendor, it is USDA inspected and meets all USDA shipping requirements for safety.) And it tastes divine.

This bacon is just one of the surprises that await those that, like me, expected Pete’s to sell little more than fresh produce. They do, of course, sell high-quality fresh produce, much of which is local when in season. There are, however, many places to get fresh local produce in this area, so that in and of itself is probably not enough of a reason to journey down to Pete’s from the Main Line. The wide selection of other interesting products, however, is:

• A massive wall of jarred goods includes jams, salsas, applesauces, pumpkin butters, and more. In particular, we loved the roasted red pepper salsa, a mild and slightly sweet take on the chip sidekick.
• Freshly-baked fruit pies and breads, delivered daily from D’Ambrosias Bakery and Amber Waves, as well as cookies from My House Cookies.
• An interesting selection of artisinal pastas and sauces.
• A huge variety of  honey.
• Farm-fresh eggs right from Pete’s farm (each dozen has probably 8 different colors and sizes of egg).
• Local cheeses, including a great smoked cheddar from ChesCo’s Conebella Farm.

I’m sure there are other treats as well, so I’ll simply wrap up by stating that Pete’s is a food-lover’s paradise. It’s certainly worth a drive on a beautiful summer weekend to pick up everything you need for a great al fresco dinner at home.

Pete’s Produce Farm
1225 East Street Rd. (Rt 926)
West Chester, PA
610-399-3711
http://www.PetesProduceFarm.com

Hours:
Mon – Sat: 9:00 am – 6:30 pm
Sun: 9:00 am – 6:00 pm
(Call first in the off-season)

Note: Image above from Pete’s Facebook Page.

We visited Yellow Springs Farm on the weekend of May 21-22, 2011 for their Spring Open House. Conveniently located between Rts 29, 401 and 113, Yellow Springs is a small goat farm that specializes in artisan cheeses and local fauna. The open house gave us an opportunity to wander around the farm, say hello to the friendly goats and browse Yellow Springs’ collection of locally-grown plants.

More importantly, we were able to sample some of the homemade cheese. Made mostly for their CSA (which is sold out for 2011), Yellow Springs available cheeses vary seasonally, and include a wide variety of styles such as fresh chevre and “Goat-za-rella” (a goat-based mozzerella), bloomy rind cheeses, and aged goat cheeses. The featured cheese on our visit was called “Bliss”, a bloomy rind cheese that was described as sort of like Brie. On the farm, it was smooth, fresh & balanced, featuring a mild earthiness and traditional goaty flavors. It wasn’t as gooey as Brie in the center; it had more of a firm, chalky (in a good way) texture, but we were told it would become more runny over 2-4 weeks in the fridge. Though we couldn’t hold off for that long, it did take on a noticeably more funky flavor notes (again, in a good way) as it kept for the week or so that we held off finishing it.

Though the CSA is sold out for this year, cheese can be ordered through YSF’s website and picked up at the farm. Check back for different types of cheese. They also offer cheese platters, goat milk caramel sauce, wildflower honey and more. They also sell cheese at the Collegeville, Anselma and Great Valley Farmers Markets.

In addition to cheese, YSF’s nursery features a nice selection of local fauna, including fruit plants and trees (blueberry, strawberry, blackberry), herbs, and other plants sure to thrive in your garden. They also offer landscape design services.

To tour the farm, buy some cheese, or browse their selection of plants, contact the farm for an appointment or visit during a regular open house (the next one is Friday June 17th from 4-6pm).

Yellow Springs Farm
1165 Yellow Springs Road
Chester Springs, PA
(610) 827-2014
yellowspringsfarm.com‎

I’ll never forget the best strawberries I’ve ever eaten. It was 1997; I was in Munich, Germany, strolling on the outskirts of the Viktualienmarkt (a farm market in the center of the old town), when I walked past a vendor selling strawberries that smelled so intoxicating that I couldn’t do anything else but stop. The berries lived up to their fragrant aroma; they were perfectly sweet and juicy, with just a hint of tang. What was so amazing about these strawberries was how they absolutely melted in my mouth. Typically, with supermarket strawberries, firmness indicates ripeness; a strawberry that falls apart while eating is too far on the wrong side of rotten.

Which brings me to Sugartown Strawberries, a small farm that’s about a mile south of Paoli Pike, on Sugartown road in Malvern. Perhaps best known as a purveyor of pick your own (PYO) strawberries (which was unavailable last year and isn’t available yet this year), SS offers fresh produce at a small farm stand Spring through Fall, including strawberries, of course, as well as asparagus, squash, eggplant, peppers, sweet corn and tomatoes.

Strawberries aren’t ripe in this area for very long (mid-May to mid-June), but right now (late May 2011), the Sugartown strawberries ($5 a pint) are in great form. Just like those unforgettable Munich strawberries, they melt as you eat them and have a wonderfully sweet juiciness that you simply can’t get with the California strawberries in the supermarket this time of year. They are certainly worth a quick detour from Paoli Pike, King Street or even Rt. 30 if you are passing through the Malvern area. Asparagus is also in season (though I haven’t been lucky enough to get any yet) for $3/bunch.

Sugartown Strawberries also hosts a series of Farmtable Chef’s Dinners. The meal, which is prepared by J. Scott Catering, features seasonally inspired, locally sourced ingredients and is served at an open air dining site (with candlelight & bonfire) which provides breathtaking, romantic views of a Chester County Century Farm. The 2011 dates are June 12th, September 18th, and October 2nd. $95 per person / BYOB. To reserve, call 610.647.0711.

Sugartown Strawberries
640 Sugartown Road (about a mile south of Paoli Pike)
Malvern, PA
(610) 647-0711
http://www.sugartownstrawberries.com | Facebook
Hours vary, but there are typically strawberries on the farmstand to purchase whenever you go.

Bake 425, which opened in April 2011 at 1012 W. Lancaster Ave. in Bryn Mawr, is a take-out, bake-at-home pizza shop and the latest project from Pete Howey and Aaron Nocks, owners of Peace-A-Pizza. Elizabeth Comiskey of Phoenixville’s Farmers Market helps source the completely organic, seasonal ingredients. The menu is mostly pizza, ranging from simple plain or Margherita to more innovative combinations such as the “Southwest Sausage”, which features organic tomato sauce, locally made Italian sausage, mozzerella & fontinella cheeses, sliced poblano peppers, caramelized onions & fresh oregano. Other offerings include organic salads, apple crisp and “ginormous” cookies.

The store itself is bright and open; chalkboards & kitchy decor create a casual-meets-gourmet feeling. (The space will also be available for in-store events and catering services.) Staff are friendly and willing to answer questions about the menu or the cooking process. Especially appreciated is the “demo kitchen”, where customers are shown how to insert and remove ‘za from the oven. (It seems easy in theory, but you don’t want to lose a pizza on the bottom of your oven – trust me.)

On our initial visit, we couldn’t resist the “Nutty Chick”, a tantalizing combination that includes butternut squash puree, fontinella cheese, arugula, pancetta, herb-grilled chicken, shaved Parmesan & fresh rosemary. Though I recall reading that Bake 425 would offer a choice of gluten-free, vegan, whole wheat, and regular thin crust dough, these choices weren’t listed on the menu, so they either aren’t available yet or you have to ask. I meant to inquire about whole wheat, but it slipped my mind at ordering time.

Though the temperature 425 is an integral part of this store’s identity, directing customers to cook pizza at such a low temperature is a bit odd. Professional kitchens typically cook thin crusts at 800-900F; home ovens obviously don’t get that hot, but I typically aim for 475-500 when cooking my own ‘za. Bake 425′s pie isn’t all that thin, which is probably part of the reason the suggested temperature is lower. Still, these instructions might need tweaking. Though the outer crust got crisp quickly, the center was undercooked, and the top didn’t get bubbly as a great pizza should. I even resorted to pulling out the blowtorch to crisp the cheese, but that didn’t help much.

My personal preference is for the thinnest possible pizza crust; I’ll complain, for example, about the thickness of Neopolitan-style when coming from Rome’s paper-thin pizzerias. So, Bake 425′s crust, which falls somewhere between local Italian (thin) and Greek (thick) style pies, was disappointing. If you prefer it with a bit more heft, of course, this may be less of a concern.

Despite the crust complaint, the balance of flavors on the Nutty Chick was outstanding. Butternut squash sweetness perfectly offset the salty pancetta, woodsy fresh herbs and pungent flourishes of Parmesan. Though the menu explicitly listed rosemary, I detected a blast of sage as well — probably from the “herb-crusted” chicken. Interestingly, while the herbs on said chicken were essential, the chicken was probably extraneous. Restraint is crucial when it comes to pizza ingredients, and the chicken — although it certainly didn’t cause any flavor imbalance — may have weighed down the pie and contributed to the cooking troubles.

It was difficult to judge the doneness of the “ginormous” cookie, due to a lack of experience cooking such absurdly-sized treats. Alas, I believe I slightly overcooked it. Considering the ginormousness (this thing could easily satiate 6 adults after a meal of pizza), it seems that offering a choice of smaller cookies would be better for both cooking execution and portion control. Though the cookie was decent while hot, it didn’t hold up well the following evening (it became brittle and bland), thus I would have preferred to have extra uncooked dough for another fresh batch.

Price is certainly a consideration when ordering from Bake 425. For $17, a large Nutty Chick feeds 2-3 people (more likely 2). Considering the quality of fresh, organic ingredients, this is actually quite reasonable, but feeding a family will certainly cost more than a trip to the corner pizza shop.

Lastly, one surely can’t write about Bake 425 without a comparison to Mom’s Bake at Home Pizza, the torch-bearer for ready-to-cook pies on the Main Line since 1981 (who, incidentally, suggests cooking at 475 degrees). In reality, with Mom’s locations in Devon, Havertown and Newtown Square, there probably isn’t a great deal of direct competition for a shop in Bryn Mawr. If, however, they were located on the same block, Mom’s would be the easy winner, for their superior, thin crust and evenly-cooking pies. Don’t write off Bake 425 just yet, however. Though there were a few flaws in the execution, a knack for creative, tasty flavor combinations sets the foundation for success.

Bake 425's Nutty Chick, before

Bake 425's Ginormous Cookie, before

Bake 425's Ginormous Cookie, after

Bake 425
1012 West Lancaster Avenue
Bryn Mawr, PA
610-525-6425
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Pick-up and delivery is available 1:00pm – 8:00pm Sunday through Thursday and until 9:00pm Friday and Saturday.