You don’t want to miss out on tidbits like who will be replacing The Paddock in Devon, do you? We often post smaller stories and news via these channels before they are posted the main site, if they make it here at all.

BTW, you don’t need to have a Facebook or Twitter account to check these feeds – just use the links provided here.

Winter warmers, which is what us beer geeks call these winter ales, tend to be richer in flavor, higher in alcohol and generally bigger than beers we drink any other season. Weyerbacher, an Easton, PA brewer who has made a name for themselves with big, Belgian-style ales, has, somewhat surprisingly, gone in a different direction here. (I expected at least 8% abv in a Weyerbacher winter warmer, but this is only 5.6%) Instead of the big, over the top beer, they’ve come up with a roasty, malty, wonderfully smooth brew that can be enjoyed one at a time or in a session. The truth is that this is a somewhat simple beer. It’s not going to change your life. It is, however, darn delicious, which is why it is my “must buy” winter ale every season.

It starts out with aromas of molasses, vanilla and a hint of nutmeg. The taste is dominated by chocolate malts, coffee, and a bit of licorice. A hint of root beer essence (but not overwhelmingly so – I don’t even like root beer) and maybe just a hint of cherry as well round it out. Not much hops here, but some effervescent carbonation cleans off the finish. Simple, but delicious and a great “house” beer for your Winter season.

This beer doesn’t require much attention to enjoy. It just tastes great. I was going to write that if you prefer big, Belgian-style or hoppy, complex ales, this beer probably isn’t for you. But that’s not really true. Even if you love them big & bold, you can’t drink those every day. Everybody needs a “house” beer, and this is mine during the cold winter months. Give it a try!

This month, Local Cookbooks takes on Gravy Wars: South Philly Foods, Feuds & Attytudes by Lorraine Ranalli, which is a fascinating look at the South Philly gravy (aka tomato sauce) culture, describing in hilarious detail the endless debates that Lorraine’s family had (still has!) over the proper way to make gravy, and whose is best. The book, which includes at least 9 gravy recipes (with multiple variations), plus a plethora of other South Philly faves from scaloppini to pizza to biscotti, is certainly a must-have for anyone raised Italian in this area, and an entertaining read for the rest of us.

This is a different kind of cookbook. It has recipes, sure, but that’s not really the point. If your family makes gravy (or any of these other dishes), you probably don’t need a recipe. As Lorraine herself says in the introduction, “as you read this book, take the term ‘recipe’ lightly… knowing which tomatoes to use and how to season them for gravy is a combination of experience, instinct and taste, although that assertion is as much a source of controversy as the gravy itself.”

The reason I absolutely love this cookbook, however, is for the stories. Growing up in an Italian-American family – though my family was unique in its own way – these stories resonate as if Lorraine is talking about them. Non-Italians who have their own family food traditions should also find these stories fitting and nostalgic, if about different recipes. I also loved reading through the “glossary” at the end of the book, which offers the South Philly version of a word, the Italian version, and the English definition. (Example: Foomadge / Formaggio / Cheese)

Though we usually include a recipe from the book with our “local cookbooks” series, I’ve decided instead to honor the idea of Gravy Wars by including my own gravy recipe. Of course, as with all the chefs profiled in Gravy Wars, I don’t really have one. I cook it by feel, and change ingredients and spices based on what season it is and what I have on hand. But, just for this article, I wrote down what I did one recent Sunday and humbly share it with you know. I’m quite sure your grandmother’s is better, but my family sure enjoyed it over some “managott”.

Mike’s MLD Gravy

• 2 25oz cans whole peeled San Marzanos
• 1 6oz can tomato paste
• 1/2 cup water
• 1/2 tsp cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp freshly grated nutmeg
• 2 whole star anise
• 2 whole cloves
• (calm down, they are just spices)
• 1 tsp sugar*
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 tbsp dried Italian herbs
• Garlic (4-6 cloves), divided
• 1/4 cup olive oil, plus more
• Heaping handful of fresh basil

*it’s best to taste the raw tomatoes before adding sugar to judge natural sweetness. Add more or less sugar depending on what you have naturally.

Mix together the first 9 ingredients, using a potato masher to crush tomatoes
Smash & chop half the garlic and mix in to pot.
Simmer for 3-5 hours.
Remove bay leaves, anise and cloves.
Smash the remaining garlic, chop and add; also add 1/4 cup olive oil and basil (roughly ripping up as you add).
Mix together and cook for 10-15 more minutes.
Serve.

Gravy Wars: South Philly Foods, Feuds & Attytudes
by Lorraine Ranalli
Folger Ross Publications, 2009
Buy on Amazon

Yeah, we know, another holiday gift guide… but hey, maybe you’ll find an idea here that you haven’t seen before!

Food Gifts
Great for a hostess gift, or just for the person who never stops thinking about their next meal:

• A Taste of Olive offers wonderful oils and vinegars, plus other great little gourmet gift ideas.
• Sweet tooth? Laura’s Biscotti is a great local treat.
• Fresh, local cheese from Chester County farms.
• Gift Baskets from Talula’s Table (pictured)

Local Food Experiences
Instead of just handing over a gift, why not spend time with your favorite culinarian, enjoying food and drink? Consider these local purveyors of fine food experiences:

• The Wine School of Philadelphia – Enhance your love of wine, beer and/or cocktails with a fun, educational class. Gift certificates available.
• Cooking Schools – try Viking in Bryn Mawr, or Charlotte Ann Albertson, various locations.
• Philadelphia Urban Adventures – explore the Italian Market or sip local beers with “Philly on Tap.”

These are some of my favorite kitchen gadgets:

• I love to use my vertical (beer can) chicken roaster, and there are now many different varieties on the market. This one from Weber looks nice, or you might consider this little one as a stocking stuffer.
• This Cuisinart Spice & Nut Grinder is great for the chef who wants to take advantage of the fuller, richer flavor of whole spices in their food.
• Have hours of fun with The Smoking Gun!

Books
Always a safe bet!

If you’ve followed our local cookbooks feature, you already know we love Corked & Forked by Keith Wallace. The book has a lovely design and a Philly connection, so it’d make a great gift for the local food lover.

Other Cookbooks to consider:

• Gravy Wars – for the South Philly Italian (or the wannabe) in your life.
• Rustic Italian Food – Philly fave Mark Vetri’s new book!

Or, try these food-related memoirs:

• My Korean Deli – A writer tells the story of how his family purchased and ran a convenience store in Brooklyn. A fun read.
• Blood, Bones & Butter – Truthfully, this one was a bit over-hyped when it came out, but it still was an entertaining book.

Beer
People always bring a bottle of wine to a party – and there is certainly nothing wrong with that. But why not mix it up by bringing a big bottle of local beer instead? This will be especially thoughtful if you travel out of the area, yet bring a piece of your local culture. You can’t go wrong with any of these:

• Sly Fox Christmas Ale (Wegmans)
• Troegs Mad Elf (Wegmans)
• Iron Hill 15^th Anniversary Ale or Sasquatch  (Any Iron Hill location)
• Victory Dark Intrigue (Limited Availability – Try the Brewery)

Finally, for the food lover who has everything… how about this Sous Vide Oven?

Feel free to share other suggestions below…

“This smells like Christmas!” exclaimed a friend of mine who was trying this beer for the first time. Anchor Christmas Ale, from the Anchor Brewery in San Francisco (most famous for their Steam beer), is always the first beer I look for when the Christmas ales hit the shelves. Though the formula changes from year to year (and always remains a secret), it is consistently delicious and a great representation of what Christmas beers are about.

This year’s version pours a dark, reddish brown with ample head retention. The aroma features a heaping dose of pine, with notes of mulling spices, notably clove and cinnamon. Chocolatey malts coat the palate, paired with quite a bit of cherry and more of those great spices. A balanced dose of hops cleans up the finish and keeps this tasting like a beer. All in all, it is both immensely flavorful and very smooth.

This drinkability is one of the main differentiators for this beer. Many other excellent Holiday Ales, such as Tröegs’ popular Mad Elf and Belgian favorites like Delirium Nöel, are high in alcohol (8-12% ABV), so though they taste wonderful, they are definitely sipping beverages that are almost more like wines than beers. As such, if you aren’t as familiar with the Christmas style, Anchor’s version is a great starting point.

Anchor Brewing Our Special Ale (Christmas Ale)
Anchor Brewing Company, San Francisco
Style: Winter Warmer (Xmas Spiced)
ABV: 5.5%
Widely Available in the Main Line Area ($11 for a 6-pack at Wegman’s)

Photo via anchorbrewing.com

In 2010, we were lucky enough to take a dream vacation to a villa in Tuscany – a week of eating, drinking and exploring the small towns and beautiful countryside of Italy’s most famous* vacation destination. It was as great as it sounds, and of course grows in stature in my memory every day since.

Unsurprisingly, we drank a lot of wine during the trip, almost all of it Tuscan. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano was the particular wine we consumed the most often, for several reasons:

1. I’d never had it before.
2. It is part of the “Big 3″ Tuscan wine zones, yet far less well known or accessible in the states than the others, Chianti and Brunello. Though I love Chianti, it is widely accessible here. Brunello is also great, but it is very expensive here, and considered best when aged at least 10 years (something we were unable to pull off during our week-long stay).
3. Our villa was about 25 minutes from the town Montepulciano (Relax, TwiHards).
4. We visited a great winery in the Montepulciano region called Le Berne.

Most importantly, I immediately fell in love with this wine. It has a great sense of place, highlighting the dark cherry fruits of Sangiovese (the base grape for all 3 Tuscan wines), but also carrying great earthy notes of leather and mushroom. In addition, it tends to be a little fuller than Chianti, with slightly less acidity and a softer mouthfeel. It has potential for medium-term aging, but is also very accessible young.

Unfortunately, living in PA, even with my new-found knowledge and love of this wine, procuring some upon our arrival home became somewhat difficult. The PA system only listed a handful, and only one was available in a nearby store. IIRC, none were available online at that time. (Now that I am hip to other online options, it is a bit easier, but still requires some extra effort.)

So, as can be imagined, I was ecstatic when I saw that the Chairman’s Selection program was bringing in a Vino Nobile this fall. Though I hadn’t tried this particular wine, it was priced insanely low at $15 (the first Vino Nobile I’d ever seen under $20 in the US – hopefully not too good to be true), and would be widely available.

Truth be told, this is not one of the finer Vino Nobiles that I have had, but it is still a great deal at $15, and thus a great way to try this particular wine if you have never had it before.

The aroma of this wine is dominated by mushroom & earth, with notes of leather and dark (almost candied) cherries. Palate shows more cherry & kirsch-like flavor, with just a bit of earth. Tannins are soft, chalky and chewy on the finish. I would decant this wine for about 15-20 minutes – it does take to a little air, but also fades rather quickly, so avoid anything longer.

Cantina del Bueno Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2008
Region: Tuscany
Grape: Sangiovese (at least 70%)
PA Price: $14.99
Find it in stores

*I’m sure somebody will disagree with this comment, but it is certainly arguable that Tuscany is Italy’s most famous vacation destination. Sure, Rome (my favorite city in Italy), Amalfi Coast, and Venice also warrant consideration

Local Cookbooks is a feature at MLD where we share a recipe from a cookbook with local ties. Have a cookbook we should consider? Let us know.

This month we’re featuring Corked & Forked by Keith Wallace, released in August 2011. Yes, that’s two recipes in a row from this cookbook, but 1) we really like it, and 2) it’s very appropriate for the season, so we couldn’t resist. For a little more on the book, check out our last post. We promise a different book next month (…though this certainly won’t be the last we see of C&F).

While the pork chop recipe we featured was decidedly simple, this month we’re moving into more advanced territory. This recipe is a play on the traditional Turducken (where a chicken and duck are stuffed inside a turkey); it features a turkey breast for the meat, and uses the essence of both chicken and duck, without the absurd stuffing process. This playful, yet quite usable approach is a great representation of Corked & Forked’s fun approach to cooking.

Though it is certainly easier than the real thing, it does have a few tricky steps. Firstly, it requires butterflying a turkey breast (though a butcher could certainly do this), which is not quite as simple as with something uniformly shaped (such as a pork loin). The other mildly difficult step was knowing when to stop cooking the stuffing – Wallace says “when it has the consistency of bread pudding;” mine was a bit runny at the final product, however, so it may have been pulled too soon. Despite this creating a messy plate, this dish was darn tasty and a nice alternative to some of the rather boring turkey preparations out there.

TURDUCKEN

SERVES 6
1/2 CUP RENDERED DUCK FAT, DIVIDED
2 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
5 GARLIC CLOVES, MINCED
1/4 CUP SPANISH ONION, FINELY CHOPPED
1/2 TEASPOON FINE SALT
1 TEASPOON FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER
1/2 TEASPOON FRESH ROSEMARY, CHOPPED
1/4 CUP CELERY, FINELY CHOPPED
ZEST OF 1 LEMON
(MLD Suggestion: Use 1/2 lemon – the whole thing was a bit too much)
1/2 CUP FRESH BREADCRUMBS
2 CUPS CHICKEN STOCK
1 (2 TO 3 POUND) TURKEY BREAST

Preheat your oven to 400° F.

In a saute pan over medium heat, combine 1 tablespoon of the duck fat and the olive oil. Once the fat has melted, add the garlic, onions, salt, and pepper and saute until onions are translucent, about 2 minutes. Add the rosemary, celery, lemon zest, and breadcrumbs and toss until coated. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Simmer until the mixture has thickened to the consistency of bread pudding. Let cool for 20 minutes.

With a very sharp chefs knife, and using a large cutting block, butterfly the turkey breast by holding down the breast and carefully slicing the meat in half horizontally, with your knife parallel to the cutting board. Do not out the entire way through. The end result should look something like the front and back pages of a magazine (albeit a magazine made of meat).

Flatten the butterflied turkey breasts, and them to a lé-inch thickness using either a meat tenderizer or the bottom of a heavy pot. Spread the stuffing on the turkey breast, leaving a $5-inch border all around. Starting at a long end, roll the turkey and stuffing to form a uniform log, then tie in four places with kitchen twine to secure the meat while it cooks.

Coat the turkey with the remaining duck fat, place on a sheet tray, and bake for 1 hour and 20 minutes, until the internal temperature reaches 165° F. Let rest for 10 minutes. To serve, remove the string and cut into one-inch-thick portions.

Wallace recommends a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir or Pennsylvania Cabernet Franc with this dish.

Corked and Forked :Four Seasons of Eats and Drinks
By Keith Wallace
Published by Running Press, 2011
Buy on Amazon

(Note: a review copy of this book was provided to MLD)

Landor Associates image of new PLCB store in South Philly

As part of his campaign, new PA governor Tom Corbett promised to privatize liquor sales in Pennsylvania, but we’ve seen little action on this issue so far. It appears, however that this is about to change.  Last week, the movement gained a key ally when Senate Majority Whip Pat Browne (R-Lehigh) announced his support for the bill (House Bill 11) originally proposed by House Majority Leader Mike Turzai, R-Allegheny, which proposes to close 625 state liquor stores and sell 1200 licenses to the highest bidder. In addition, according to the PA Independent, Corbett has just recently received a report from a Philly-based business research firm detailing the potential revenue gains from selling off the state stores (this report has yet to be made public). Lastly, the Pennsylvania think tank Commonwealth Foundation has recently launched http://freemydrink.com/ to bring more exposure to the issue.

The debate is far from over, of course. Over the summer, Senate President Joseph Scarnati, R-Jefferson, spoke out against the bill, showing support instead for removing “handcuffs” to allow PLCB to operate more like a private business. Other state senators, including John Blake, D-Lackawanna, also remain skeptical.

So, from that standpoint, I must say that I’m quite looking forward to checking out the swank (for PLCB standards, at least) new Paoli digs, which are planned for the ACME shopping center, in the space where Blockbuster used to be. The store, which will dwarf the current cubicle that hides behind BK, will feature more than 3000 additional products. It will also have a 8-seat bar for tastings, a plethora of Chairman’s Selections (including high-end choices), a temperature-controlled room, and even a wine chiller that’ll cool any shelved bottle of wine in less than 15 minutes. And – gasp – it’ll be open on Sundays!

When will this store open? Well, that’s just the thing. Apparently it was planned for July, but is held up in Harrisburg. Shocking.

Local Cookbooks is a feature at MLD where we share a recipe from a cookbook with local ties. Have a cookbook we should consider? Let us know.

This month we’re featuring Corked & Forked by Keith Wallace, founder of The Wine School of Philadelphia, released in August 2011. As Wallace is known (previously to this book, at least) more for his drink knowledge than his cooking, one of the unique aspects of this book is that every recipe has a suggested drink pairing. Many are wine, but beers, cocktails and even coffees are also included.

The book is also organized in a unique way – firstly, by season (the book’s subhead is “Four Seasons of Eats & Drinks”), and then by themes, such as “Autumn Dinner Party”, “Rainy Day Nosh”, etc. Each theme has a grouping of dishes that could go together in some sort of meal progression, or, of course, be cherry-picked as the reader pleases. Corked and Forked’s visual design is marvelous; it’s very colorful, with great rustic, vintage-looking photography (and lots of it).

The recipes range from very simple to quite complex. For today, I chose one of the simpler dishes – pork chops with sage and white beans – mostly because it seemed like an interesting, yet not-too-elaborate way to turn a relatively banal set of ingredients into something much more exciting. Also, because I live for Tuscan cuisine and this is a prototypical example of it.

For a wine pairing, Wallace suggests – perhaps unsurprisingly – a Tuscan Sangiovese. Though he mentions Chianti as a perfectly fine choice, his more specific recommendation is Morellino di Scansano, another Sangiovese-based blend from southern Tuscany that has “a bit more heft” than Chianti and offers a better value. Unfortunately, our friends at PLCB aren’t offering any Morellinos at the stores I frequent (though there are a few statewide and a paltry one bottle available online), so I had to make another selection.

Though Chiantis are certainly enjoyable and easy enough to come by, I chose instead to serve a Vino Nobile de Montepulciano – another Sangiovese-based wine that’s lesser known stateside, but happens to be my favorite Tuscan wine. Considered one of the “big three” Tuscan DOCGs (with Chianti and Brunello, both of which receive far more exposure), Vino Nobile is perhaps more balanced than the other two – with less acidity than Chianti and softer tannins than the powerful Brunell0. Still, it showcases the classic Sangiovese characteristics – aromas of saddle leather and tea leaves, and flavors of ripe cherry fruit balanced with a pleasant earthiness.

As Morellino (Wallace’s choice) also tones down the acid and pumps up the fruit flavor versus Chianti, Vino Nobile seemed a reasonable substitution… that is, until I started to eat the meal. Then it seemed like a great substitution! What a wonderful pairing it really is – especially with the sage. The wine’s acidity and tannins – though moderate – stood up to the food and cancelled each other out, bringing out the earthy aromas and deep cherry fruit in the glass. I especially liked how the sage paired with the wine – when I combined the two, it almost doubled the length of the finish.

As for the dish itself, boneless pork chops and white beans are relatively inert ingredients, but the simple touches of fried sage and garlic, freshly ground salt and pepper, good olive oil, and a touch of lemon bring out richness and, more importantly, bold flavor in this dish. Simple to prepare, yet complex on the plate. This is Italian cooking.

A great dish – I look forward to trying more of what Corked & Forked has to offer!

Pork Chops with Sage and White Beans

1. Coat each pork chop with 1/4 tablespoon olive oil and 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper. Set aside. Place a large saute pan over medium-high heat. Add remaining olive oil, garlic and sage to the pan and cook 1 minute, until garlic starts to brown and sage crisps. Carefully remove sage and garlic from the oil and reserve. (MLD Note: the key here is to watch the garlic carefully — if it burns, it’ll infect the entire dish with bitterness.)
2. Add pork chops to the hot pan and cook undisturbed 4 minutes or until meat turns deep golden brown. Flip chops and cook about 2 minute more, until an instant-read thermometer reads 145F. Remove pork chops from pan and reduce heat to low.
3. Return fried garlic and sage to pan and add lemon juice. Scrape bottom of pan with a wooden spoon to release any crispy bits and then add beans. Toss together and cook until beans are thoroughly warmed.
4. Place one pork chop and a single scoop of beans on each plate. Garnish with parsley.

Incidentally, Wallace himself cooked this recipe recently on the 10! Show – watch the video

Corked and Forked :Four Seasons of Eats and Drinks
By Keith Wallace
Published by Running Press, 2011
Buy on Amazon

(Note: a review copy of this book was provided to MLD)

I’m not really a cake person. I’d much rather eat a cookie or a brownie, or some ice cream. I’ll admit, however, to getting caught up in the cupcake movement when it hit the area, falling for Cupcakes Gourmet when it first opened. But that love affair was short-lived. I quickly remembered cookies and brownies, and lost interest in the cupcake thing.

So, though I’ve seen Dia Doce at the East Goshen Farmers Market on several occasions, I always walked by without much of a glance (after all, My House Cookies, Laura’s Biscotti and Market Day Canele all also appear at the same market). Being a reluctant slave to food trend, however, I have to admit that, the other day, I walked past their cupcake truck at an event and couldn’t resist the temptation to try a Maple Bacon cupcake. After all, cupcakes and bacon are two of the biggest trends we’ve seen over the past 5 years or so, and I’ve never had the combination.

Despite the fact that I didn’t particularly care for the Maple Bacon flavor, Dia Doce are perhaps the best cupcakes I’ve ever had (I got a box of 4 for $10). Yep, better than Cupcakes Gourmet. The cakes are incredibly moist, the frosting-cake ratio is perfect, and the flavor combinations are very creative.

For the bacon cupcake, the maple frosting and cake were both nice, but the chewy bacon added an odd textural element. Though it was fun to try, I wouldn’t order it again. The chocolate chip cookie dough cupcake (pictured), on the other hand, was perfect for me – as it was kind of a combination of a cookie and a cake. We also tried a chocolate cupcake with chocolate frosting that was filled with a salted caramel cream, adding even more moistness to the wonderful cake. Lastly, the pumpkin pie cupcake – an obviously seasonal choice – was probably my favorite. Rich with fall spices, this cake was insanely moist and the frosting had just the right sweetness.

Has Dia Doce converted me to a cake person? Not quite. But if I do get the hankering for cupcakes (or the need to please those in my household who do love them), I know where I’ll be getting them from now on.

Dia Doce sells cupcakes at a variety of farmers markets in the area. In addition, you can track their cupcake truck online or rent it for a private event.

Dia Doce Cupcakes
http://www.diadoce.com
610.476.5684

(note: photo from Dia Doce Facebook page)