Perhaps the most controversial restaurant review Main Line Dine has ever written was that of Christopher’s in Wayne, which posted shortly after the site launched in 2003. This review was ruthless, wasting little time calling out Christopher’s as “a terrible restaurant… [where] you won’t get a decent meal.”

There was nothing more to this review than what it was; no below-the-surface grudges existed. It was fairly based on several poor experiences, which were documented with clear examples. The most egregious concerned a dish of ravioli that was so undercooked it was crunchy, then re-served without sauce (and still crunchy, btw) after sending it back. (After posting the review, we actually got several notes from Chef/Owner Chris Todd inviting us to revisit, but it was too late. This was unforgivable stuff – not “worth another try” stuff.)

Readers, for the most part, agreed with our assessment. Friends who read it concurred wholeheartedly. Though some commenters on the site thought the review was overly harsh, they rarely offered anything other than a halfhearted defense.

So why was this review controversial? Well, it was from 2003, and remained on the site, unchanged, through 2011. As the years went by, and Christopher’s remained open — which, of course is not necessarily an indication of good food, just good business — the reviews began to change. More often, when someone left a comment about Christopher’s, it was something along the lines of “What is your problem? This place is pretty good”. My one buddy, who was perhaps the most ardent supporter of our original review, even conceded that he and his wife now go regularly and enjoy it for what it is – a casual, quick bite.

It is finally time, then, to bury the hatchet, and put Christopher’s back into the mix. When some friends were looking for a place to meet for lunch in Wayne recently, I enthusiastically suggested this we go there.

The atmosphere is great; it always has been. Some commenters have suggested that the negative review related to the fact that the room is always filled with families with children. This makes it noisy, yes, but so what? This is a “neighborhood place”, not the Four Seasons (or Hogfish, apparently). It’s probably not the best choice for a romantic, candlelit dinner, but it is a fun, bustling room that is designed quite nicely and is, of course, a great place to bring kids.

Service is decidedly casual, as it should be, but a small detail showed considerable improvement since the days of crunchy ravioli. One of our party mentioned a food allergy, and the seemingly young and potentially inexperienced server handled it as well as I’ve ever seen. “No problem,” she said right away. “Our kitchen is great with allergies. I’ll let them know right away.” It’s little touches such as this that make diners feel like they are in good hands.

Christopher’s menu remains a bit unfocused; their website even states that they offer “a little bit of everything” and “so many choices.” It’s hard to believe any restaurant can expertly execute Mexican, burgers, pizza, pasta, seafood and everything in between, but Christopher’s continued success suggests that they are managing some level of consistency.

That said, the Guinness pulled pork sandwich immediately drew my attention. Not a barbecue pulled pork (which they do also offer), which tend to be overly sweet in these types of establishments, this was pork slowly braised in dark, roasty beer. An interesting twist on a favorite, to be sure. The richness of the pork paired nicely with tangy apple slaw, as well as a spicy-sweet “cherry” mustard, and the pretzel roll was a comforting, delicious touch to finish it off. This sandwich is perhaps a bit heavy for a business lunch, but on a day off, when paired with one of the craft beers on tap (from a small but adequate list), it hit the spot.

It was just a sandwich. There are a world of other menu options to explore, which would take many, many visits to do with any completeness (even just sticking to the simple stuff, which seems wise), but it was definitely a more enjoyable experience than it was in 2004.

Perhaps Christopher’s isn’t a terrible restaurant after all.

All the comments from 2004-present are available below.

It’s amazing how many small food businesses exist in this area that even the most avid food lover might not know about. Take Sugartown Smoked Specialties, for example, who has been smoking up specialty meats & fish in this area for almost 20 years. 20 years! Though much of their business is selling to restaurants and wholesalers, Sugartown Smoked Specialties has also been a longtime tenant at the Lancaster County Farmers Market in Wayne (located next to the Greek stand in the back aisle), and sells some products at Hill’s Seafood Markets locations. In addition, all of their products can also be ordered online.

Owner Scott Hattersley offers a wide variety of smoked foods, including fish (salmon, scallops, etc.), fowl (chicken breast, pheasant) and pork (loins, tenderloins and ribs). Here’s an overview of a few of the items we sampled:

Natural Wood Smoked Boneless Duck Breast
Duck prosciutto, which is cured duck breast, is a somewhat trendy item to find on a charcuterie tray, and, with that wonderful layer of duck fat that sits atop the breast meat, it really is no wonder. This isn’t that… but there are similarities. Instead of being cured, Sugartown’s 12oz moulard duck breast is hot smoked over wood, which imparts a bold, intense flavor. That wonderful layer of duck fat remains, and the meat is packed with smoky goodness. What does that have to do with duck prosciutto, you ask? Well, although this can be heated an eaten like any other duck breast dish, I actually suggest serving it like charcuterie. Cut it super thin, and serve as you would prosciutto… alongside hors d’oeuvres, or perhaps in a sandwich with figs and bleu cheese. At more than $30 for each breast, this isn’t an everyday treat, but it’s a nice addition to the antipasti platter for a special occasion.

Whole Smoked Quail
4oz each, 4 for $26.50

Quail’s flavor is much stronger than that of chicken, and the natural smoke flavor that’s added during cooking makes this dish even more intense. I ordered quail in a restaurant once. It’s tasty, but it’s also a lot of work. There I was, sweating for every bite, while I watched my fellow diners relaxingly enjoying their non-quail meals. Since then, I’ve stayed away. It’s just not worth the effort. There are bones in Sugartown’s quail too, but I took a different tact. I broke the quails down while they were cold. Tore them apart with reckless abandon, not caring so much for the presentation as for the meat itself. I heated the yield gently and served it over a summer salad of mixed greens, peaches and corn. A great weekday meal. Of course, if presentation matters, you could certainly heat these babies whole and they’d look mighty purty.

Natural Smoked Tasmanian Trout
This trout, which was awarded the outstanding fish or seafood product award in 2008 in the Gallo Family Vineyards Gold Medal Awards for artisinal food producers, is similar to smoked salmon, but with a more intense, slightly gamey flavor. Though that may not be for everyone, lovers of smoked fish should be salivating. We served it in a rather traditional manner — with cream cheese and rye crackers — but this could be used in just about any preparation that calls for smoked fish. (8oz for about $20, larger sizes also available)

Sugartown Smoked Specialties
Headquarters:
306-1Q Westtown Road
West Chester, PA 19382
(610) 429-4080
http://www.smokedfoods.com

Lancaster County Farmers Market:
389 W Lancaster Ave.
Wayne , PA 19087
610-688-9688
Hours: Wed, Fri – Sat, 6am – 4pm; Sun – Tue, Thu, closed

Photos courtesy smokedfoods.com. Complimentary samples of items were provided to MainLineDine.

Tucked quietly in the Gateway Shopping Center, Kabab Cafe is a fast-casual Persian grill, serving a variety of kababs and other middle-eastern specialties. It’s an interesting choice for a shake-up of the rote, standard fare that pervades the area.

The bright, open storefront is spotlessly clean, if simple inside. The ample seating area is perfect for lunch or a quick dinner, though certainly not for lingering over a meal. The food is well-suited for takeout, able to survive the trip home still warm and without losing too much quality.

The menu, shockingly, is dominated by kababs. A wide selection of lamb, chicken, several varieties of beef, and doner (that classic “meat on a stick” this cuisine is known for), are lovingly spiced, tender and juicy. The veggie kabab is well-charred for maximum flavor. Flafel is crispy on the outside, yet moist and savory within.

At lunch, try a sandwich ($4.99 on weekdays) served on the wonderfully fresh, airy flatbread with lettuce, tomato & onion, and choose the cucumber-yogurt side salad (which is really more like a sauce than a salad), which brings a welcome tangy sweetness into the mix. For dinner, platters come with two kababs, a side salad, some of that wonderful flatbread, and enough rice to feed Radnor Township. (Budget tip: order one meat-based platter, plus an “extra” veggie kabab for $4, and you’ll have plenty of food for two adults — maybe 3).

Aside from the kababs, one of the specialties is koreshte goosht, a ground beef stew with peas & potatoes. It’s an interesting, perhaps seductively spiced blend (turmeric, I think?), but texturally lacking something. The beef was just a bit too pasty – almost like eating a ragu. I’m glad to have tried it once, but I’m not sure I would order it again.

Though in general our experiences have been quite good, my one gripe with Kabab’s food is that the chefs can be a bit heavy-handed with the onions – particularly in the koobideh (ground beef). Eaten straight, the onion flavor is so overwhelming that it’s almost difficult to taste the beef. On a sandwich, when mixed with the other flavors, it is far less noticeable, but either way, it will stick with you for the rest of the day (that’s not a good thing).

Otherwise, Kabab Cafe is a great option to mix up your lunches or take-out meals. They’re celebrating their 2nd anniversary in March 2011, so if you haven’t been yet, it’s time to give them a try. Maybe next time you think about visiting 5 Guys, try a kabab instead!

Kabab Cafe
Gateway Shopping Center
Wayne, PA
610-975-5850
http://kababcafe.com/

“As an appetizer special tonight,” said our affable waiter, “we have a deep-fried burrata.” “Ohhh sh!t,” I exclaimed. “You’re familiar with burrata then?” he asked. When I confirmed, he added: “then I guess you’ll be getting that.” Yeah, we will be, I admitted begrudgingly. It wasn’t that I didn’t want to order the deep fried ball of fresh mozzarella mixed with fresh cream (how could I not?) — my exasperation was due to the fact that I had already planned to warm my belly on a cold winter’s night with the seasonal “Reindeer Stew” at Teresa’s Next Door, which I rightfully took to be a very hearty meal. Adding the most decadent mozzarella stick ever created, plus a couple of TND’s amazing but heavy beers, surely meant a bellyache later. But there was no way I was turning down that burrata.

We didn’t go to TND that night with the intention of re-reviewing the popular Wayne bar & restaurant; though our previous article was a few years old, it still seemed to accurately describe the TND experience. Surprisingly however, the food has evolved quite a bit, and though the old standbys (an amazing beer list, 6 varieties of mussels with those amazing fries, comfort-food sandwiches) remain, the chefs have taken the specials and seasonal dishes to new heights of distinction and creativity.

Firstly, there was that burrata special. For the uninitiated, burrata is a fresh Italian cheese made from mozzarella and cream. On the surface it appears to be the same thing as fresh mozzarella, but when cut open, the solid exterior yields to a soft, oozing, silky interior of cheese and cream. Though this is nothing new in Italy, 2010 was the first time this delicacy started to pop up more commonly in places like New York City, so it was great to see it on the menu in Wayne. Deep frying this already decadent creation is probably unnecessary, but it certainly was an interesting twist to try. (Once.)

Another nightly special was a grilled llama burger. My dining partner was thinking about getting a burger anyway, so I was able to talk her into it, because, really, how often does anyone eat llama? Certainly this was unexpected from a quick bite in downtown Wayne! Knowing llama is less fatty than beef (and thus a bit blander), we chose to get a runny fried egg on top to make up for the lost fat/flavor. The burger was perfectly cooked medium rare, tender and juicy. It was only mildly gamey and the egg was a great addition. Though this burger didn’t actually come with fries, we had to order TND’s amazing hand-cut, Belgian-style frites with aioli too, as they just may be the best in the area, and serve as a perfect foil to either a burger or any of TND’s great mussel dishes.

Lastly, the entree we came for: Reindeer Stew 2010 – braised antelope shanks in Troegs Mad Elf with baby carrots, fingerling potatoes, herbs and cran-huckleberry chutney ($27). The meat was perfectly fall-off-the-bone tender, with no knife needed. In contrast to the llama, it was quite gamey, so probably not for everyone, and probably not something I’d want every weekend, but the uniqueness of the dish made it interesting and enjoyable. I particularly liked the cherry notes from the Mad Elf that accented the sauce, and the tang of the cranberry chutney.

Aside from the food, TND continues to set the standard (along with TJs) for beer service and selection in the area. The draft selection is absurd, featuring a wide variety of domestic and import craft and/or specialty beers (with a focus on Belgians) that will rotate regularly, all with appropriate glassware. There are also hundreds of bottles (from countries from the US to Belgium to Malta) available and an extensive, reasonably priced wine selection.

TND is a long, thin room with an incredible bar alongside the left side (the display of glasses is a sight to be seen). The right side is lined mostly with 2-4 person booths but also with some smaller tables (similar to the cafe) along the side. There isn’t a ton of room in the center, so when things get busy, expect it to be a little cramped and quite noisy. Unfortunately most of the tables/booths are small, so any party over 4 will have a tough time finding space together.

Over the years there have been quite a few comments on this site (which can be viewed below) complaining about rude and snobby staff members, but we have neither experienced this in previous visits, nor did we experience it during our recent visit. Our waiter was friendly, knowledgeable and casually professional.

The only downside to TND is the fact that it isn’t dirt cheap night out like the cafe next door. The food is aptly priced, and a person could easily fill up on food for less than $20, but the beer and wine will bring the overall cost up quite a bit (especially if you, like us, can’t resist trying several different varieties). Still, a visit to TND won’t break the bank (unless you start downing $48 bottles of Scaldis Prestige).

Teresa’s Next Door
126 N. Wayne Ave.
Wayne, PA 19087
610-293-0119
http://www.teresas-cafe.com/

It’s no exaggeration to call White Dog Cafe the most anticipated restaurant since Main Line Dine began covering the local scene in 2003, so it was with a mixture of anticipation, curiosity and cautious optimism that we braved the early crowds to get a peek at the new local hot spot.

Even from the street, the space White Dog occupies is stunning. Large windows overlook Rt. 30, and what looks like it will become a popular terrace sits bare, patiently waiting for Spring. Inside, the decor is more elegant than TWD’s downtown cousin, while maintaining a healthy dose of the famously funky kitsch. Four different dining rooms offer varied atmospheres, which almost makes it possible to have a completely different experience from visit to visit.

The front room, which contains the expansive bar, is decorated wall to wall with painted dog portraits, creating the feeling of a cozy, fun and slightly strange hunting lodge. The two side rooms are closer to a living room, or perhaps a country cottage, and the back room, with its bright lighting and butcher block tables, feels more like a bouchon. Though it is hard to declare which atmosphere is best without having dined in each room, we did encounter the major drawback to the front room: sitting anywhere near the bar risks being hassled and annoyed by the throng of people waiting for a table as they jockey for a drink. This may be fine for those looking for a quick bite from the bar menu, but for larger parties, who took the time to make a reservation, and are paying dining-room prices for the complete culinary experience, this is simply unacceptable. Otherwise, service is friendly and casual, yet incorporates some slight formal touches.

The menu, of course, is all about fresh, local, sustainable, fair trade ingredients, and though Judy Wicks no longer runs the day-to-day operation of either restaurant, her ideals remain at the forefront of each. We started with the Wild Mushroom Stuffed Raviolis — appropriate for Fall — which were tossed with trumpet mushrooms, scallions, tasso ham and light porcini cream ($9). These airy pillows of pasta were deliciously earthy, and tempered by a touch of cream and the occasional bite of smoky ham, although the chewy, tough trumpet stems could have been omitted. We also tried a dish not on the website menu — Spiced Lamb Sliders, which were made from ground meat and topped with a lovely tzatziki sauce. Seared only to rare, they were melt-in-the-mouth succulent and one of the highlights of our meal.

Our waitress informed us that the Spicy Lamb Bolognese, which contained Meadow Run Farms lamb, Severino rigatoni, basil ricotta and baby spinach ($20) is a “signature dish” of the downtown White Dog, and one can surely see why. Chunks of lamb and perfectly balanced spices (though the dish isn’t really “hot” spicy) create a marvelous depth of flavor, and the dollop of ricotta that’s whipped with fresh basil adds a pungent flourish to the already silky, creamy sauce. This is easily the menu’s must-try dish!

A more casual option is the Green Meadow Cheddar Burger, which comes adorned with Smoked Bacon Mayo, Grilled Red Onion & House Cut Fries ($15). We’ve all had a burger with bacon, cheese & onion, and though this one isn’t going to change the world, it is nicely executed. The meat was cooked properly, and the combination of the rich cheese, smoky bacon and juicy beef creates a powerfully flavorful sandwich. The fries were particularly good as well — crispy enough, but also tender and well-seasoned.

Sadly, we did endure one major disappointment: The Red Wine Braised Beef Short Ribs, served atop root vegetables, garlic-Parmesan potato puree and crispy shallots ($28). The beef itself was woefully undercooked — no, it wasn’t rare, but it was quite tough, not fork-tender as properly braised meat ought to be. There were huge chunks of fat throughout — another indication that it needed more time in the oven, or to be cooked at a lower temperature (or both). If that wasn’t enough, the root veggies, which were, boringly, all white (no orange?) were also undercooked to the point of being crunchy. Crisp veggies are fine in a stir-fry, but not in a slow-cooker dish like this one. Lastly, though it is hard to argue against crispy shallots, this dish was on the verge of being overwhelmingly oniony. Based on everything else we ate, the lack of technique and focus here was shocking, especially for a dish that seemed so irresistible in menu form.

Not wanting to leave on such a bad note, we had to sample a few of the dessert offerings. The Sugar & Spice Doughnuts, stuffed with both Kallari chocolate cream and local fig jam ($8), are a clear shot across the bow to Berwyn’s Nectar (who has built a bit of a reputation for their beignets). They were served warm, and were simultaneously bold and delicate, amazingly tender, and delectable. We didn’t appear to get the promised vanilla Anglaise dipping sauces, but nobody seemed to care.

We also tried the Caramel Apple Pudding ($8): warm cinnamon apple brioche pudding, sauteed Kaufmann heirloom apples, butter rum sauce, vanilla ice cream and a spiced crisp apple tuille, which certainly won marks for great presentation — it was served in an opened hermetic jar, with the tuille protruding from the top. This was tasty, and offered intriguing layers of warm and cold, but still failed to reach the heights of the doughnuts.

The bar offers a small but sensible wine selection (if $44 for a $12 bottle can be considered sensible; in our case the Sterling Zinfandel), as well as some local beers and a variety of signature cocktails. On a cold evening, it was quite tempting to sample from the variety of Hot Toddies, but the packed house warmed us quickly enough.

White Dog Cafe
200 West Lancaster Avenue
Wayne, PA 19087
T: 610-225-3700
F: 610-225-0700
http://whitedog.com
Reservations: Open Table

Burger & Fries

Lots of Dogs! (photo credit: whitedog.com)

Ever since it opened in 2005, The Silverspoon (Cafe) has been a quaint place to get interesting and healthy breakfast and lunch. A recent move/expansion to Eagle Village Shops (Spread Eagle Village), however, combined with the addition of chef Ron Sliverberg (son of owners Rich and Ruth), has allowed this little neighborhood cafe to reach new levels of food and service.

The Silverspoon is committed to focusing on local and sustainable meats, as well as whole grains and seasonal vegetables. Touted by the owners as a casual, “bouchon-style” atmosphere, the restaurant is housed within an open, airy room that’s both casual during the daylight hours and elegant after dark. There’s also a great patio out front when the weather is optimal.

Breakfast and lunch are consistent with the experience from the other location, if a bit more elaborate. On brunch special one day was a pulled pork hash – a saute of potatoes and baby spinach, mixed with house-smoked pork shoulder and topped with a couple fried eggs. The dish was rich and extremely flavorful. More traditional options include some interesting omelettes and multi-grain pancakes or french toast.

On the lunch side, we tried the “Cape May” panini (turkey with strawberry mustard, cheddar, and slaw). Though the slaw was somewhat overpowered by onions (a no-no for me), the sandwich was still light and tasty. Sandwiches change seasonally but always feature fresh, interesting combinations.

Coffee lovers might also take note that The Silverspoon serves perhaps the finest espresso in the area – topped with a wonderful crema, it is intense and robust without any burnt aftertaste.

Though brunch and lunch are nice experiences, dinner is truly where The “new” Silverspoon shines brightest. The seasonally-appropriate dishes are inspired and unique. Our meal kicked off with a cold avocado “soup” amuse, a decadently creamy concoction mixed with crispy guanciale (pork jowl bacon) and drizzled with chili oil. The savory flavor and crispy crunch of the Italian delicacy was a perfect addition to a nice meal starter.

A basket of fresh bread and a plate of piquant extra virgin olive oil was also served while we waited for dinner – though nothing out of the ordinary, the freshness of the bread and wonderful flavors of the oil didn’t require any additional tinkering.

As an appetizer, we shared the duck confit risotto with sprout leaves, baby bellas, and pecorino chip ($12 – also available for lunch). The entire dish was drizzled with basil oil, and the combination of the fragrant basil, pungent pecorino, and amazing earthiness of the local mushrooms almost made the duck unnecessary. But who’s going to turn down duck confit?

The entree that jumped immediately off the menu was the cider-brased berkshire pork osso bucco, pumpkin grits, truffle duxelles, grain mustard jus ($24). It sounded like Fall in a bowl, and the actual execution did not disappoint. The sweetness of the cider and pumpkin was a perfect foil for the with the richness of the fork-tender meat, creating an amazing balance and resulting in a completely clean plate.

We also tried the seared grass-fed angus beef striploin, served with marrow quinoa, broccoli two ways and a sage demi ($29). The meat was simply perfectly cooked – charred on the outside and a deep-pink medium rare within. Getting temperatures correctly is a somewhat lost art, and this was execution at its finest. Interestingly, broccoli was perhaps the most dominant of the dish’s flavors (though I didn’t see exactly what the “two ways” was). The marrow quinoa had an earthy, rich – if slightly strange – taste.

Adventurous eaters might want to visit The Silverspoon on Wednesday nights for “World Tour Wednesday”, when they offer a constantly-changing menu focused on interesting dishes from around the world such as Brazilian pork ribs, Hungarian molasses duck or Moroccan coconut cake. Follow on Twitter for each week’s menu.

In our original review (in ’05), we described the service at the Silverspoon Cafe as having a slightly weird vibe. We were unable to put our finger on exactly what it was, but it was something. Our lunch experience at the new location continued that feeling — I couldn’t tell if our waiter had a bit of an attitude or just a unique personality. At dinner, however, service was both friendly and professional, somewhere between a cafe and fine dining experience.

All in all, The Silverspoon’s decision to expand and add dinner service has been an excellent one for the area. They offer creative, innovative and sustainable cuisine, a seasonal menu, and a comfortable atmosphere for a casual or even romantic meal. Best yet, the BYOB policy makes it a great value.

Cape May Panini

Pork Hash

The Silverspoon
Eagle Village Shops
Wayne, PA 19087
610.688.7646
http://www.silverspoonwayne.com/

When I was about 8 years old, I invented a snack that consisted of peanut butter and mozzarella cheese on a Triscuit cracker. People thought I was “nuts”, but I loved it anyway. Still do, actually — the cheese is relatively bland, so it pairs very nicely with the bold flavor of peanut butter. They don’t serve PB & Motz at PB&U, the new peanut butter-focused cafe in the center of Wayne, but they do serve PB with cheddar or cream cheese, not to mention, um, pickles. Of course, they offer more traditional pairings like jelly and bananas as well.

PB & U offers some suggestions for sandwich pairings but also gives customers the option to mix and match anything from their list of ingredients. We had to try the classic PB&J on Wonder Bread, and although (sadly) it wasn’t smooshed by the apple in my lunchbox, it did certainly transport me back to grade school. We also tried PB&U’s slightly healthier take on the Elvis – PB, Banana, Honey & Bacon on Multi-grain (seemed like Le Bus), which was quite good, but I’d order it without the bacon next time, as the other flavors were much stronger, and really, why eat bacon if it isn’t the star of the dish?

Something slightly unique on the PB&U menu is what they call PB pizza – peanut butter and various toppings on round flatbread. We tried two, both of which were dessert style: a chocolate chip and honey and a cinnamon raisin. Both were tasty treats, but the addition of cinnamon to the latter really took it over the top.

In addition to sandwiches & pizza, PB&U also offers “Fondue”, which is just their homemade peanut butter alongside dippers like apples & celery, and the classic after-school snack “ants on a log”.

The thing that’s a bit unclear is who the targeted audience for PB & U really is. Surely the bright, airy and minimalist space will draw a nice weekday-afternoon crowd from Radnor Middle School, and they’re also aiming for the college set with the “4 PB&Js for $10 college pack” and the fact that they’re open until 1am on Friday & Saturday. (It should be an interesting scene at 12:30am on good bar nights!).

There’s also a playroom in back, and we all know that PB&J is big with the under-6 set. In fact, the toddler next to me chowed down an full-size sandwich like it was going out of style. Just the same, however, if PB&U wants to attract that toddler’s parents, they should consider adding some artisanal sandwiches to match up with the kid-friendly options. As an adult, it might be fun to eat Wonder Bread nostalgically, but it also doesn’t take long to realize why it’s not in the kitchen anymore: it sucks. Great Harvest Bread Company is right across the street –why not partner with them to offer high-end bread choices?

Along the same lines, calling bacon a “crazy” pairing with PB is like saying “white” pizza is crazy. 20 years ago, perhaps, but not today. Pickles are an odd choice, yes, but I don’t want them anywhere near my PB sandwich. Instead, how about some unique, upscale ingredient pairings to attract the adult palate? Peanut Butter & Co, a similarly-themed restaurant in NYC, for example, offers a sandwich called “The Heat is On” — spicy peanut butter, chilled grilled chicken and pineapple jam — that’s marketed as “Like a Thai satay – only better”. Is it good? I have no idea, but I’d be far more likely to order it than a sandwich I could make at home in less than 5 minutes.

What are your favorite off-the-wall PB pairings? Post ‘em below and maybe one day we’ll see them on the menu at PB & U!

PBandU
163 East Lancaster Ave. Wayne, PA 19087
(484) 367-7799
http://pbandu.com

Susanna Foo recently opened a take-out dumpling and Asian food stand within the Lancaster County Farmer’s Market in Strafford. Six varieties of dumpling are on offer, as well as salads, rice & noodles, vegetables, sandwiches (coming soon) and a variety of other light fare. Everything is previously prepared and sold cold for reheating at home.

A recent visit resulted in an order of Pork Pot Stickers (6/$4.95) and Curried Chicken Dumplings (6/$5.95). The porky pillows, which were served with a classic ginger sauce, had a nice char on all sides and a brilliantly-blended spice mixture within. After a few minutes in the oven, they weren’t quite as crispy as those right from the “pot” would likely be, but the wrapper was still perfectly chewy. The deep-fried, Indian-style curried dumplings were less appealing texture-wise, though admittedly I don’t love fully-fried dumplings (but who can pass up chicken curry?). A seriously spicy kick was tempered with a sweet apricot sauce served on the side.

All told, this counter (which is located in the first row, towards the back) is a great addition to the market. Stop in and and grab a nice take-out lunch or light dinner.

Foo to Go
At the Lancaster Farmers Market
389 W. Lancaster Ave, Wayne, PA
610-688-8694
http://susannafoo.com

Rating: 4 silver spoons out of 5

Overview: 333 Belrose opened in 2000, a fine-dining destination hidden on tiny Belrose road away from Radnor’s busy Lancaster Avenue corridor. For a restaurant in such a concealed location to stay successful for so long (5 years is an eternity in the restaurant business), they must be doing something right. (Hint: It’s the innovative cuisine.)

Food: Inspired, eclectic American cuisine. Executive Chef Carlo deMarco and Chef de Cuisine Andrew Finch take a wide variety of fish and meat dishes and complete them with creative, fulfilling sides and sauces. The flavors that tie together each plate are what propel Belrose’s menu to the ranks of the best in the area.

Although the Zinfandel Glazed Venison was a bit overcooked (medium well as opposed to medium rare), the succulent, truffle-infused demi glace was able to compensate for the slight dryness of the meat. The plate was completed beautifully by an apple cider braised red cabbage and a yam & bacon hash.

The Pan Seared Ahi Tuna, on the other hand, was seared perfectly on the outside and a dazzling pink within. Served in thick slices on a long, thin plate, the overall presentation, with fresh organic wasabi, sweet soy sauce and broccoli-yellow pepper stir-fry, recalled a brilliant sushi dinner.

Ambiance: Belrose dining area is surprisingly large, but is separated into several different smaller rooms. The good news about the restaurant’s size is that it’s rarely difficult to get a table. On the other hand, emptiness can sometimes take away from the experience. Belrose also has a popular bar with outdoor seating in the summer.

Service: Consistent with a quality fine-dining destination, Belrose’s service is exemplary. Waitstaff is courteous and helpful.

Value: Although Belrose is definitely a fine dining experience, it is not outlandishly priced. Entrees all fall in the mid to upper 20s, and there is a nice variety of wine in the $30-40 range. All in all, expect to pay around $60 per person, including tip.

Details:
# of times we’ve eaten there: 3
Reservations: Yes
Bar: Full Bar
Credit Cards

Rating: 4 silver spoons out of 5

Overview: Possibly the perfect neighborhood restaurant – good food, great service, nice people. Highly Recommended.

Food: Italian bistro fare, with pastas, pizzas, and a solid selection of meat entrees. The pastas are uniformly excellent and the highlight of the menu. Teresa’s creamy, unique pesto sauce is probably the best I’ve had this side of Italy — its so good that I have hard time ordering anything else. The “Fusili Emiliani”, squiggly pasta with pan seared mushrooms and proscuitto is the top pesto dish, but there are several others to choose from. Good news — the Ravioli al Burro is back, a fabulous roasted red pepper ravioli dish with a browned butter, sage and toasted walnut sauce.

I can’t remember exactly when Teresa’s opened (early-mid 90s?), but for the majority of the restaurant’s life, the menu stayed pretty stagnant. Although I liked pretty much everything they offered, I often wondered why it was never updated. In the past two years, however, the menu has changed several times, so much so that I haven’t even been able to try everything (and we go to Teresa’s a lot). The changes are a great development, however, as they seem to have stimulated the chef’s creativity. Currently there is an excellent pork medallion dish with a wild blueberry-sage sauce over asparagus risotto, served with broccoli rabe. Dishes like this are a primary reason why I now order meat entrees almost exclusively (despite what is written in the last paragraph). There’s also an excellent Osso Bucco, and one can never go wrong with the Tuna or Salmon.

Finally, I’ve never actually had the pizza, but it looks delicious.

Bread: Outstanding olive oil & spices mixture with complimentary Italian bread. Probably the best bread/oil combo in the area.

Ambiance: Just a wonderful local bistro, located smack in the middle of the little village of Wayne. The decor is quaint, modern, and bustling all at the same time. Its loud, but in a good way — you always feel as if you are part of something. The one complaint I hear most often is that the tables for two along the right side of the dining room are too close together — so much so that you are closer to the person next to you (at the next table) than you are to your dining companion. This has never bothered me personally, but its the most common complaint I get from other Teresa’s diners.

Service: The service is top notch. Requests are always fulfilled in a timely manner, and the waitstaff could not be nicer.

Value: Great Value! It’s BYOB, so two can eat dinner for under $40, sometimes under $30 depending on what is ordered.

Details:
# of times we’ve eaten there: countless
Reservations: None. Can be a long wait during peak weekend hours.
Payments: Cards
Bar: BYOB